For more than 30 years I’ve been traveling north to Ontario every year to target walleye, northern pike, brook trout, lake trout and smallmouth bass. I keep going back for one simple reason -- the fishing is incredible.

     Compared to my home state of Michigan, Ontario has more lakes, better fishing, a wider variety of species to choose from and when I get there chances are I’m going to have the whole lake to myself. 

     There is something special about being up north and fishing with the people you care most about. The atmosphere and fellowship I enjoy on an Ontario fishing trip can’t be duplicated back home and here’s why.

FISHERY MANAGEMENT

     When I was a kid anglers flocked to Ontario because they could fill the boat and their coolers with fish. Today, that is only half true. While the quality of fishing in Ontario has gotten nothing but better over the years, fishery managers have recognized the need to preserve and massage this precious resource. Bag or creel limits on most all species found in Ontario are much more conservative today than they were one or two decades ago.

     That’s actually a good thing because fish harvest is critical to managing a species for maximum benefit. It’s true that fishermen want to keep fish for the table, but it’s also true that when too many fish are harvested, fishing success suffers dramatically.

     Ontario was one of the first regions to recognize the benefits of using slot limits and selective harvest techniques to balance the need for taking a few fish for table fare while, leaving important breeding stock in the lake to perpetuate the species.

     Across Ontario on key species like walleye, a slot limit is in effect that allows anglers to keep only one fish over a certain length. In the case of walleye, only one over 18 inches may be kept in the bag per day. By releasing the majority of adult fish, spawning success is dramatically improved and the overall fishing success skyrockets.

     Reduced daily bag limits is another way that fishery biologists control the harvest and preserve fishing opportunities for future generations. By reducing the daily creel limit from six to four fish, anglers are still allowed to harvest ample fish for consumption, without wasting a resource that has very finite limits.

     Doing away with possession limits is yet another way that in Ontario fish resources are carefully controlled to provide the maximum benefit to the angler. Most states allow a daily and possession limit. For example if the possession limit is 10 walleye, you can have five fish in the freezer back at camp and still harvest five additional walleye.

     In Ontario there are no possession limits, only daily limits. That means if you fished on Monday and kept a legal limit of four walleye, you can’t keep any additional walleye until the four already kept are consumed. 

     Some anglers argue that without possession limits it’s tougher to accumulate fish to take home. I argue that measuring a trip by how many fish you take home is a mistake. I measure my fishing trips by the fish I catch and release, not the ones that go home in the cooler.

THE CONSERVATION LICENSE

     The advent of the Conservation License has been another important tool that fishery managers use to carefully regulate fish harvest. The Conservation License costs less than the regular fishing license and in turn allows anglers to harvest half the number of fish. 

     In the case of walleye, harvesting two fish per licensed angler is more than adequate if your goal is a hearty shore lunch. Because the Conservation License limits harvest of fish, it inherently protects the resource and still allows anglers to harvest a reasonable amount of fish for the table.

COLLECTIVE BENEFITS

     The collective benefits of slot limits, reduced creel limits and Conservation Fishing Licenses has converted Ontario from a place that historically had good fishing to a region that delivers world class fishing opportunities. Again using my home state of Michigan as an example, what inland lake can you visit in Michigan and routinely catch 20, 30 or more adult walleye per day of fishing? The answer is none. Across Ontario there are literally hundreds of lakes you can drive to, fly to or use a train to access that routinely produce this caliber of fishing.

IT’S ABOUT CATCHING NOT KEEPING

     My father’s generation were enthusiastic anglers, but they were also born to parents who survived the great depression, commodity shortages of World War II and other hard times. In those days keeping the “limit” was how a fishing trip was measured.

     These days the measurement of a fishing trip should be judged not in the number of fish kept, but rather in the number of fish caught and released. Thankfully our neighbors to the north have figured this out and created fishing opportunities that are second to none. 

     Besides the popular species like walleye, northern pike and brook trout, Ontario is home to some of the best smallmouth, largemouth, crappie, perch, lake trout, whitefish and muskie fishing in the world. 

     I keep traveling north to Ontario every year because in the end, I’m more interested in the adventure of fishing, than what’s on the fillet table. In my mind, the thrill of catching fish is only surpassed by the joy of releasing them. Yes I do keep some fish for the table and I encourage others to do the same. Eating fish is an important part of the experience, but embracing the concepts of catch and release is how we’re going to insure the fisheries we enjoy today survive for future generations. 



IF YOU GO:

www.northwest-ontario.com

www.gofishinontario.com

www.algomaregion.com

www.ontariossunsetcountry.ca

    The topic of fishing line used to be a short story. Today, fishing line is anything but simple and understanding the different kinds of lines available has become a rather complex subject.

    Because the average angler hasn’t taken time to fully digest the latest technology to hit the fishing line market, they are less than prepared to make critical decisions that can and will influence success on the water. A little time on the internet can pay big dividends when it comes to understanding fishing lines and how to best use them.

LINE TYPES

    Fishing lines come in an ever growing number of categories including nylon monofilament, co-polymer lines, spectra braided lines, microdyneema  fiber lines, Uni-Filament lines, lead core lines and PVDF or fluorocarbon fishing lines. All of these lines have advantages and disadvantages. Like everything else in fishing, compromise is a part of the puzzle forcing anglers to make intelligent decisions on what line types work best for specific presentations.

MONOFILAMENT

    Ordinary nylon monofilament has been around for decades and amazingly this basic fishing line product continues to play a huge roll in the sportfishing industry. Largely what makes monofilament so popular is the combination of properties and modest cost. Nylon monofilament has relatively thin diameter, low memory which makes it easy to handle on spinning, spin-cast and baitcasting reels, amazing abrasion resistance and a controlled amount of stretch that makes this type of fishing line amazingly difficult to break. 

    All these features add up to a line that is still a winner for certain presentations like open water trolling, float fishing, river fishing and for targeting smaller species like panfish that don’t put deliver a lot of abuse to fishing line.

CO-POLYMER LINES

    Co-polymer fishing lines are a close second to nylon monofilament. Sort of like monofilament on steroids, co-polymers are thinner in diameter without giving up important characteristics like tensile strength. Co-polymers have less memory and are very user friendly fishing lines suitable for all types of reels.

    The disadvantages of co-polymer lines is they tend to be a little less abrasion resistant and the cost is slightly higher than monofilament lines. Just about any application that monofilament line works well for, co-polymers can be used effectively.

    Like monofilament that comes in every size and color under the sun, the same is true of co-polymer lines. This line type has a slight advantage over monofilament for use on spinning reels because of the ultra low memory and a slight disadvantage over monofilament because of the somewhat reduced abrasion resistance.

FLUOROCARBON

    Fluorocarbon lines look like nylon monofilament, but they are much different. Fluorocarbon line is denser and sinks, whereas monofilament and co-polymer lines float. Because fluorocarbon line sinks, it becomes the obvious choice for a number of contact style presentations like rigging, jigging, drop shotting and fishing soft plastics in combination with Texas rigged weights.

    Fluorocarbon line is also completely invisible in water making it not only a good choice for main line, but also as a leader material. Like monofilaments, fluorocarbon comes in different grades designed to make the line stiffer and have greater abrasion resistance as a leader material or softer and have less memory for use as a main line. It’s important to read the fine print because a fluorocarbon that’s designed as a leader material will pop off a spinning reel like a coil spring! In the same token, fluorocarbon designed as main line will have far less abrasion resistance than the typical leader material.

    Besides the presentations outlined above, fluorocarbon leader material is ideal for rig fishing leader, tying spinner rigs, used as diving planer leaders or shock leaders for pike and muskie fishing applications.

SPECTRA BRAIDS

    Spectra is one of the most common “super fibers” used to create braided, low stretch lines. Thin in diameter and exceptionally useful in the tensile strength department, spectra braids are widely used on both spinning and baitcasting reels.

    Because these lines have very little stretch and exceptionally thin diameter, they are ideal for jig fishing, deep water rigging applications, flipping and pitching into heavy cover, as diving planer lines and for trolling applications that require achieving maximum diving depth.

    The biggest disadvantage of spectra braids is they require the use of special knots. Ordinary clinch style knots will often slip when tied using spectra braids because the fibers themselves are so slippery. The best overall knot for using spectra braids is the easy to tie and very strong polamar knot.

MICRODYNEEMA BRAIDS

    Microdyneema is an extra thin fiber used to create a different generation of “super braid” lines. Because the fiber is stronger for a given diameter than spectra fibers, Microdyneema lines can be made thinner without sacrificing tensile strength.

    The chief disadvantage of Microdyneema lines is a reduction in abrasion resistance compared to spectra lines and low knot strength.  Useful in jigging applications that do not call for super strong lines, Microdyneema lines enjoy a niche in the fishing line market.

LEAD CORE

    A sinking style line designed for trolling has been around since World War II when miracle fibers like Dacron and nylon first became available. Lead core line is made up of a thin wire made of soft lead covered with a coating of nylon braid that gives the line strength.

    Like other fishing lines, lead core comes in different break strength or working loads. The most common sizes are 18 and 27 with a few anglers using 35 and 45 pound test lead core line.

    Primarily used for deep water trolling applications, lead core is rather thick in diameter for the break strength and is only suited to being used on larger baitcasting or level-wind reels.

COMMON SENSE CHOICES

    As a member of the Vicious Fishing Pro Staff, I’ve been using Vicious lines for the past five years. Like all manufacturers of fishing line Vicious produces a wide variety of line types including monofilament, co-polymer, spectra braid and two versions of fluorocarbon.

    To keep my fishing as effective, yet simple as possible I’ve adopted the following user guidelines.

    For general purpose trolling with planer boards or downriggers I prefer to use a co-polymer line like Vicious Ultimate. Because this line is very thin in diameter, I tend to select a break strength one size larger than I would ordinarily choose. For example, when walleye trolling I would typically use 10# test monofilament, but select 12# test Ultimate for this task. Doing so gives me more break strength without giving up the diving depth of my lures.

    For the majority of jigging and rigging applications I prefer Vicious Braid which is a spectra product. For walleye fishing I opt for 10# test with a two pound test diameter. For bass fishing 15# test with a four pound diameter is ideal. This same line in 20# test is a good choice for deep water jigging for things like lake trout. I also use this line in larger sizes for casting to pike and muskie. The 50# test is ideal for pike fishing and the 65# or 80# is perfect for muskie fishing applications.

    The new Pro Elite Fluorocarbon line is the ideal main line fluorocarbon for bass, panfish, steelhead and walleye fishing applications. Soft enough to fish on a spinning reel without memory issues, Pro Elite is the ultimate fluorocarbon for casting applications with spinning and baitcasting gear.

      Vicious also makes fluorocarbon line designed to be used as leader material. This super tough and invisible line is the perfect choice for typing spinner rigs, slip sinker rigging, carolina rigging, diving planer leaders, downrigger trolling leaders, lead core leaders or any leader application. I even use this line to tie leaders for toothy critters like northern pike and muskie, creating super tough, flexible and invisible leaders that allow my lures to enjoy maximum action.

SUMMING IT UP

    Fishing lines have become one of the more complex subjects in fishing. With so many different line types available and so many new products on the market, it’s a challenge to find products that work well.

    No single line type can work for all fishing applications. Understanding a few of the line types available and how to get the most from these fishing products is the fast track to success. Fishing line may not be a short story anymore, but it’s a story with a happy ending for those who embrace the technology and get the most from it.

           My first fishing boat was a 14 footer aluminum model with a 25 HP tiller operated outboard. When I bought this boat I thought I was making a lifetime investment.

            It didn’t take long to realize that what I had invested in was an education, not a boat that would serve me well my whole life long. I soon realized that a 14 foot boat isn’t ideal for fishing larger waters.

            It wasn’t long until I sold the 14 footer and graduated to a 17 foot SC model with a 90 HP outboard. Contentment was short lived however. The very next year I jumped into the ranks of fishing V6 outboards and purchased my first boat with a 135 HP outboard! At the time that engine seemed huge. Today that engine is a puppy compared to the 225 or 250 HP Evinrude E-Tec outboards I’m currently running.

            Since I purchased my first boat in 1985, I’ve owned more than 25 other fishing boats and every one I have loved and hated. No matter what anyone says about fishing boats, no single boat can do everything a serious angler is likely to encounter. Begrudgingly I’ve come to the conclusion that owning a fishing boat is a situation laden with compromise. The best we can do as boat owners is find a compromise that best fits our fishing style and budget.

            If you’re at all interested in a new fishing boat, the next couple months are a critical time to make your decision. These days boat dealers are likely to have less inventory on the floor than ever before. What that means is if you are forced to order a boat, it’s going to take six to eight weeks minimum to have that boat built, shipped, rigged and made water ready.

            Assuming you want to be fishing come early spring, time is wasting if you’re really serious about making a boat purchase in 2012.

SIZE MATTERS

            With a fishing boat, the overall size is the most important factor to consider. Budget restraints are the primary reason fishermen settle on a smaller model and then soon become disillusioned with their investment. I’ve personally lived this situation a number of times and can say with confidence that it’s better to spend a little more and get a bigger boat, than to wish you had one or two years down the road.

            Buying a boat that’s a little too small will cost you down the road when it’s time to trade that boat in and move up to a larger model. The investment made in sonar, electric motors, batteries, rod holders and a dozen other after market items is totally lost when you trade in one boat for another.

            The smart move is to purchase a boat that meets your needs today and down the road, even if that boat is a little more than you want to spend.  Trust me, no boat buyer ever looked back and said.... “I wish I would have bought a smaller boat.”

            I recommend 16-17 foot models for anglers who are primarily interested in fishing inland lakes and rivers. The angler who has interest in fishing the near shore waters of the Great Lakes is going to be better equipped with a boat that’s at least 18-19 feet in length. Serious fishing in larger lakes, reservoirs and the Great Lakes calls for a boat in the 20-22 foot length.

HORSEPOWER CONCERNS

            Next to selecting a boat that’s on the small side for what they intend to use it for, purchasing an outboard that’s too small for the job is the most common mistake I see anglers making. Boat dealers are largely to blame for this problem as they put the minimum size outboard on boat packages to keep the price down and sticker shock to a minimum.

            While most dealers will try to encourage the buyer to purchase a larger outboard, once that price has set into a buyers mind, it’s tough to change their mind.

            A 16-17 foot boat with a 40 HP outboard is barely capable of getting that boat up on plane when loaded with anglers and gear. The same boats would perform far better if equipped with a 50 or 60 HP outboard.

            Boats in the 18 foot class require an outboard in the 90-115 HP range to see good performance. Larger boats like 19 footers and above really need the power of a V6 in the 150-200 HP range to enjoy maximum performance.

            Going too big with an outboard is almost as common as going too small. Tournament anglers make this mistake thinking that a few miles per hour of additional speed will translate to more fishing time and bigger bags of fish at the weight-in.

            The speed difference between a 225 and 250 is minimal, but the gas consumption isn’t. What running the maximum horse power on a fishing boat will usually do is kill your fishing budget with unnecessary stops at the gas station.

            If a boat is rated to handle a 300 HP outboard, chances are a 225 is going to make that boat perform nicely. The wisdom here is not to under power a boat or over power a boat, but to select an outboard that provides the right combination of power, performance and value.

ACCESSORIES

            The margin of profit on a boat, motor and trailer package is a lot smaller than the average person realizes. Dealers don’t make a lot of money on the sale of a boat and motor, so they try to pad the profit by loading the boat up with after market gear that has a much higher profit margin.

            Certainly it’s going to be necessary to add some key accessories to a fishing boat including an electric motor, batteries, sonar, rod holders, etc. The question becomes do you order these items from the dealer or purchase them outright and mount them yourself?

            The answer to that question depends on how handy you are and also how much time you’re willing to dedicate to a boat rigging project. I personally take great pride and rigging my own boats, but I’ve also had 25 years of experience doing so.

            The angler who isn’t comfortable wiring electronics or drilling holes in a boat to mount rod holders is probably a candidate for letting the dealer handle these chores. Certainly the cost to the consumer is going to be greater, but there is some peace of mind in knowing the job is done right and done in a timely fashion.

            If you’re the handy type, I highly recommend doing a significant amount of the rigging chores yourself. Running electrical leads for things like sonar units isn’t difficult, it’s just time consuming. The sweat equity gained can save the boat buyer thousands of dollars in labor charges. That’s money that could be invested in better accessories, a bigger boat or maybe even a bigger outboard! Think about it.

MORE ON ACCESSORIES

            Just like making the mistake of buying a boat that’s too small or one that has an inadequate outboard, pinching pennies on the accessories leads anglers to regret those decisions. A few years ago I discovered a product line that allows me to easily add accessories as I can afford them.

            The Bert’s Custom Tackle “patented” Track System is pure genius when it comes to boat rigging accessories. Once the track is purchased and mounted, a host of important accessories slide in and out of the track as the angler can afford them or dictates the need.

            The Bert’s system readily accepts a number of rod holder designs available at different price points from entry level to pro angler quality. The same track system readily accepts a fixed and or swivel base downrigger bracket making it easy to mount downriggers and remove them just as quickly. There are also other key accessories like tool holders, net holders, drink cup holders, downrigger ball cups, sonar brackets and on and on.

            The Bert’s system is the ultimate in modular boat rigging. Even better, if you decide down the road to sell your boat, simply strip off all the accessories and on the new boat, mount track and you’re ready to go again in minutes. No other boat rigging system is as versatile or saves the customer more money in the long run than the Bert’s Custom Tackle Track System. Period.

BATTERIES

            Batteries are one of those hidden costs that no one ever thinks about until it’s time to buy them. In a fishing boat equipped with a 24 volt electric trolling motor, the owner is going to need at least three expensive batteries or better yet four.

            Buying cheap batteries saves money today and will come back to haunt you two or three years down the line when they need to all be replaced. Dealers know the difference between good batteries and bargain brands, but unless you request good batteries, chances are you’re going to get a bargain model.

            When it comes to deep cycle batteries, bite the bullet and get the biggest and baddest models you can afford. The same holds true for cranking batteries. I typically rig two 600 cold cranking amp batteries in my fishing boats so I have double the amp hours for running stuff like sonar, live-well pumps, bilge pumps and recirculation systems.

            The two batteries are wired in parallel which doubles the amp hours without changing the voltage. This simple rigging step has saved my bacon countless times over the years when I had battery power to spare instead of a dead battery.

SUMMING IT UP

            The old saying that a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into is partly true. This is true because so often boat buyers make bad decisions at the time of purchase and then end up paying for that bad decision down the road.

            It’s better to invest in a boat that meets and exceeds your needs than one that barely meets them. A little extra money spend up front will save you tons of money down the road.

     When I purchased my first fishing rod 40 plus years ago, it was a two piece spinning model. Back in those days almost every fishing rod on the market was designed with a two piece metal ferrel that joined the rod sections together. Depending on the length, some rods in those days had two or three sets of ferrels! Honestly these rods were clumsy, heavy, lifeless and not exactly a winner in the sensitivity department.

     Technology in rod development has come a very long ways since those early days of the modern era in fishing. The materials rods are made of, the manufacturing processes and yes the ferrel designs have changed so much, it’s safe to say if you haven’t owned a two piece rod in recent years, you might be surprised how fishable multiple piece rods have become.

ADVANTAGES OF MULTIPLE PIECE RODS

    The ability to break a fishing rod down in two or more pieces for transport is huge in these days when an angler may be fishing close to home on Monday and hundreds of miles away come Saturday. The number one reason fishing rods break ties directly into the dangers of transporting them! From boat lockers to the trunk on your car, more fishing rods meet their demise at the hands of a slamming door than all the other excuses combined!

     Because multiple piece rods can be quickly broken down for transport, they are about twice as likely to survive fishing trip to fishing trip! That’s huge, because no one wants to show up at their favorite fishing hole only to discover their favorite rod is in pieces.

     Multiple piece fishing rods fit nicely into rod tubes and cases that in turn fit into a car trunk, the belly of a float plane, on baggage carrousels, roof racks and a hundred other places a one piece rod isn’t going to fit into.

     In a pinch a two piece rod can be broken down and the pieces held together at the butt and tip with an ordinary office rubber band. If two or more rods are  bundled and transported this way, they become amazingly resilient to breakage.

TELESCOPIC RODS

     The next best thing to a one piece rod is a telescopic rod that allows a significant portion of the rod to slip inside the butt section. This shortens the rod making it much easier to transport and fit into rod lockers. Currently the largest selections of telescopic rods are found in the baitcasting arena. Rods designed for bass, pike, walleye and musky fishing head the list of models suitable for telescopic designs.

     In my personal line up of fishing rods, I have Bass Flippin’ Sticks that are telescopic. These rods serve me well for flipping bass jigs and also for casting pike lures. I also have Musky rods that are telescopic and designed to handle heavy lures. I get double duty from these rods casting for other trophy fish like stripers. I also have a full set of telescopic baitcasting rods that are designed for fishing bottom bouncer rigs to catch walleye. These are long rods and the telescopic feature allows them to fit in the rod locker of even modest fishing boats.

     A telescopic rod brings to the party a rod that is similar in action and strength to a one piece model, yet they easily collapse for storage and transport. Very cool.

TRAVEL RODS

       A growing number of anglers are discovering travel rods that come in several pieces, that fit nicely into a carrying case that also accepts a couple reels and some tackle. Travel rods are perfect for the angler on the go who can’t be lugging a big long rod tube through airports and custom checks. 

      The Okuma Nomad series www.okumafishing.com  leads the charge in travel rods that are high quality and made for serious fishing. These rods are available in a dozen different casting and spinning versions that feature three segments that fit nicely into the travel case that’s provided. 

      Travel rod cases have the advantage of being small enough to strap to another suitcase, so at the baggage line, both will ship for one baggage fee.

     The cost savings in using travel rods compared to traditional rods is amazing if you do a lot of flying. Recently I shipped a rod tube to Saskatchewan for a Fishing 411 filming adventure. The trip involved three different airline carries all of whom charged me a baggage fee for the rod tube. Because the rod tube is considered oversized baggage I was also charged a premium from each carrier. 

     The round trip baggage fee ended up costing me $200.00 to ship half a dozen rods! Travel rods would have been included with my other baggage saving me lots of cash and worry wondering if my rods would arrive in one piece!

SUMMING IT UP

     Two piece, telescopic and multiple piece travel rods are an outstanding way to travel with fishing rods these days. The rod quality, sensitivity and fishability of these rods is without compromise and chances are they will survive the adventure much better than your pet one piece rods.

     Nothing puts a downer on a fishing trip more than arriving only to find your favorite rods didn’t travel well.

     The pursuit of fishing can become an “overwhelming” advocation when it comes to the list of essential gear required. Whenever possible I try to recommend places where a reel or rod can provide “double duty” on a fishing boat, providing the owner more value for their money. In some cases, this just isn’t that practical. Some special purpose reels are so unique, owning them is justified by the fact they are going to help anglers catch lots more fish. End of story.

LINE COUNTER REELS

     Actually the story is just beginning and a good place to kick off the conversation of special purpose reels is with line counters. The market is literally flooded with line counter style trolling reels ranging in price from under $40.00 to upwards of $1,000.00 each. Obviously the more expensive reels provide more quality, longevity and creature comforts. Not every angler however needs or would get value from a top of the line “line counter” reel.

     Line counter reels are available in two types including gear driven mechanical counters and electronic counters. Gear driven counters function by using a set of brass gears that are engaged when the reel spool is rotating. Each rotation of the spool causes the mechanical counter to click away, providing the angler with a relatively accurate assessment of how much line is actually being deployed behind the boat.

     Mechanical line counters are accurate, trustworthy and for the most part affordable. A few high end mechanical line counter reels cost upwards of $200.00, but the majority are retailed for $120.00 or less.

     Electronic line counter reels have actually be around a long time, yet you rarely see these reels in use. Never have these reels became popular in part because of the overwhelming cost of these reels. Only the most serious troller is going to outfit a boat with reels that can range in price from $200.00 to over $1,000.00 each!

     What makes the electronic line counter a viable option is the accuracy they provide. Because the counter is recorded with a digital readout not a mechanical set of gears, electronic reels can take into consideration variables an ordinary line counter reel can’t.

     Say for example you’re trolling with 200 feet of line out behind the boat. Each rotation of the reel spool, the amount of line on the reel decreases and the amount of line that plays off with each rotation decreases. In other words, if you’re letting out 200 clicks on a mechanical line counter reel, you’re not actually letting out 200 feet of line. Mechanical line counters tend to underestimate the amount of line played out when long lead lengths are required.

     Lead length is a critical factor to how deep fishing lures dive and it’s nice to have the lead length as accurate as possible. Still, the question becomes is the cost of an electronic line counter worth the benefits? 

     The short answer for most anglers and angling situations is NO. Electronic line counters are probably more expensive than can be easily justified. Additional advice is to invest in a mechanical line counter that’s in the middle of the road in terms of price. The less expensive reels are not designed to stand up to day in and day out use. Spending $80.00 to $120.00 each on line counter reels will pretty much guarantee those reels will last for many, many years.

GETTING THE MOST FROM LINE COUNTERS

     Most anglers buy their line counter reels as they can afford them. The problem is when one brand goes on sale, the temptation to mix brands becomes overwhelming. 

     Mixing brands and or sizes of line counter reels is a bad habit to get into. The problem is each reel brand and the different reel sizes don’t calibrate the same. What that means is if you have four different reels on your boat, the numbers that the respective counters indicate will be different on each reel, even if the same amount of line is played out! That defeats the whole purpose of having line counter reels in the first place!

     To get the most accuracy from line counter reels it’s very important to use all the same brand and size reels. Mixing and matching will lead to significant problems in that the lead lengths will vary making it tougher to put together a solid trolling pattern.

     It’s also important to load each reel with exactly the same diameter fishing line. If one reel has 10# test and another has 17# test, the thicker 17# test will take up more space on the reel spool. As line is played off, the diameter of the spool will shrink more quickly with thicker 17# line than thinner 10# line that allows more line to be stored on the spool.

     If all the reels are loaded with the same diameter fishing line and the same amount of line is put on each reel, the line counter functions will be as accurate as possible.

CALIBRATING LINE COUNTERS

     It is possible to calibrate different size line counter reels or reels with different line diameters so the counters match. To do so, measure off a set distance -- say 100 feet -- and mark the distance with two stakes. Tie the fishing line to one stake, zero out the line counter and walk to the second stake letting line play off the reel.

     If you get to the second stake which is exactly 100 feet away and the line counter says you have let out 105 feet of line, the reel is loaded with a little too much line. Cut off 20 feet of line and try the same test again. This time the counter will say 103 or 104, indicating you still need to cut a little more line off the reel and try again. When the reel says 100 and you’re standing at the 100’ marker, the reel is perfectly calibrated.

     This process of calibrating a line counter reel can be done with any brand, size or line diameter. Still, it’s easier to simply buy all your reels from the same manufacturer, choose the same size reels and put the same diameter line on them. This way the reel will naturally be accurate without having to calibrate them every time the line needs changing.

SUMMING IT UP

     Line counter reels are for sure a special purpose fishing product. Anyone who trolls will find the investment helps them catch more fish. Those who doubt this nugget of advice are going to have a hard time figuring out the trolling game.

Something about seminars focusing on fishing amaze me. I’ve personally done thousands of seminars myself, worked with countless other anglers in producing the Super Walleye Clinics and I’ve also attended dozens of other seminars conducted by anglers who I respect. At each and every one of these seminars, I’ve picked up information that has made me a better fisherman.

Part of the reason I learned the walleye game so quickly back when I jumped into tournament fishing 25 years ago, was my open mind. I fished with as many fellow anglers as I could fish with, picked the brains of others and over time that melting pot of information got mixed with what I learned myself through countless days on the water. The amount if information I’ve gleaned is amazing and priceless.

Ironically, when I find myself in seminar venues I’m conducting or others are putting on, I look around and the people who come are for the most part average Joe’s who want to be better fishermen. The people missing from these seminars are the army of anglers who think they are good enough they don’t need the information being shared.

I got news for everyone who fishes. No one is beyond learning a trick or two that can make them a better fisherman. No one has all the answers all the time or even part of the time. Fishing is such a complex subject, it takes a lifetime of practice just to master the basics. The finer points of fishing are a light bulb that pops on when you least expect it.

These days I no longer have time to fish tournaments, so that learning curve in my fishing career has come to an end. I supplement that loss by fishing on TV with as many talented anglers as I can line up. Each day on the water my learning curve is on the upswing and that’s exactly the way I intend to keep it.

If one morning I wake up and come to the conclusion I know it all, shoot me because I’ve gone insane. The road to fishing success is a long one and every day there are presentations to refine, things to learn about the fish themselves and most importantly things to learn from others. TAKE NOTES

Back in my college days I developed a system for learning that has served me well my entire life. At lectures I took notes like every other kid in class. After class however I went to the library and copied down those notes a second time. With a little more time to elaborate on points made in class I was helping myself commit to memory important points by simply taking the step to copy those notes and reinforce that information in my mind.

Just before test time, I’d go back and read those notes over and over again until I had the information committed to memory. On test day, I was always confident and my grades proved that point.

So what’s the point here? When we learn things all too often we assume our memory will serve us well. In fact, our memory doesn’t do a very good job of storing information, especially information that’s fleeting. It’s way better to take some notes.

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When saving a waypoint at a place that’s producing fish, don’t just save the waypoint.... Name it! That way the next time you’re fishing the spot you will remember the significance of this particular spot. 

Keep a journal of your fishing trips and in that journal take a few notes regarding fishing conditions, how you were fishing, how successful you were, thoughts on what might work better next time, etc. A log is an important tool in the learning curve. Use it to your advantage instead of trying to remember everything. Some great mind once said, “you should never memorize anything you can easily write down and look up.”

DO IT NOW

How many times have you come home from a fishing trip all excited about something you learned? It happens for me almost every time on the water. I bet you came home and made a mental note concerning things you could change to make the next trip more productive. I also bet, you didn’t bother to do the very things you came to the conclusion were necessary.

After a fishing trip is the perfect time to make necessary changes in your gear. Maybe you need to switch from monofilament line to braided line on a couple reels? Perhaps, the jigs you were using could have been a little better designed and you need to invest in some additional gear? My point is there is a time to do things and it’s right away while it’s fresh in your mind, not months later after you have forgotten all the critical details.

DON’T BE SHY

This is something I’m working hard to teach my youngest son Jake who enjoys fishing and finds himself talking fishing with friends, teachers and other people he sees on a daily basis. When talk turns to fishing, forget about the casual approach. Pump whoever you’re talking with for details. Say your buddy just caught a couple nice steelhead in the Manistee River. Great, now follow up with what did you use to catch them, what part of the river where you fishing in, what was the weather like, were there other people fishing in the same area, etc., etc., etc.?

Fellow fishermen are more than willing to share information. Sometimes that information is a touch of an exaggeration, but mostly the information is accurate and freely shared. Take advantage of that gift by asking the right questions. Don’t assume the angler doesn’t want to share. If you start asking questions and obviously get a stiff arm approach, then you’ve just learned this particular anglers is in no mood to share.

Those who know me best, know I’m always willing to share fishing information with others because I learned many years ago you can’t get information unless you’re willing to give some up. Back in my tournament days I used to be amazed at those guys who walked around all the time stone faced, like the information they had on fishing was somehow better than mine or that of other anglers. These were often the same guys who left for home at the end of the tournament before the checks were passed out! 

Share the information you have with others and you will find them more willing to share with you. Don’t hold back and once you have information, takes some quick notes so you will not forget what you learned before you can put the information to the test.

SUMMING IT UP

This season get a little more serious about your fishing and follow a few simple guidelines that are sure to help you learn and to catch more fish. Keep an open mind. Attend seminars when you have the chance. Read magazine articles, books and watch DVD’s on fishing. The information in these is priceless.

Take notes on key bits of information for future reference. On the water work hard and after fishing, make necessary adjustments quickly before that edge gets dulled. Always be pumping others for information and share information freely with them. Remember the thing about fishing is you can never master it. All we can do is get as skilled as possible because the playing field is constantly changing. That’s exactly what I like most about fishing. It’s a pursuit I can never master, but that doesn’t mean I can’t try!!

     The era of the round head jig is history. These days jigs are special purpose fishing weapons that come in a wealth of shapes, sizes and head designs ideal for casting, vertical jigging, swimming, dragging or even fishing below floats. No more does the fisherman focused on success make one jig type work for every application. 

     The ordinary round head jig is a workhorse, but even this timeless design can’t meet the demands of the modern angler. Not using specific jig designs for different fishing situations is like trying to pound nails with a sledge hammer. A little finesse goes a long ways toward putting more fish in the boat.

STAND UP HEADS

     Stand up head designs are very useful for dragging, vertical jigging and ice fishing applications. Because the hook point is always positioned upwards, fish that bite are much more likely to get hooked compared to other jig designs. My favorite stand-up jig is the Odd Ball produced by Bait Rigs Tackle. These jigs feature a long shank Mustad hook with barbs on the shank to hold plastic in place, a super large eye-tie that’s never painted shut and they come in all the necessary sizes including 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 5/8 and even 3/4 ounce!

     Other good stand-up designs include the Northland Lipstick Jig and Fin-tech Nuckle Ball jig.

SWIMMING JIGS

     Jigs designed for swimming are created with the eye tie coming out the nose of the jighead instead of out the top of the head like an ordinary roundhead jig. This minor modification allows the jig to swim through weeds, brush and rocks without handing up or constantly fouling on bottom debris.

     The Bait Rigs Slo-Poke started this craze in jig fishing many years ago and a wealth of other jigs now micic the swimming action of this classic. The Slo-Poke has a collar to hold soft plastics in place, but this compact jig has live bait fishing written all over it. I fish the Slo-Poke often with minnows, leeches and my personal favorite -- a two inch piece of nightcrawler lightly tipped onto the hook.

     A new product from Bait Rigs the Slo-Poke LS or Long Shank is similar in design, but features a much longer hook shank more suited to fishing a wealth of 3-5 inch long soft plastics commonly used for catching largemouth, smallmouth and walleye.

ACTION JIGS

     Jigs that have a prop or blade to generate additional flash, gurgle and action are also a useful special purpose jig. The Northland Whistler Jig started this craze some years ago and today anglers can pick from a wealth of others including the Blakemore Roadrunner, Reel Bait Walleye Flasher and the Mann’s Little George.

     Because prop jigs create a little more resistance in the water, it’s a good idea to use a slightly heavier model than normal. For example, in water eight feet deep, a 1/8 ounce jig is normally about right. When using prop jigs a 1/4 ounce model would be a better choice in this situation.

     The down side of prop jigs is they don’t function well in weeds or on bottoms that have a lot of debris like rotting leaves or vegetation. The debris tends to clog up the blade’s ability to rotate and flash, lending this design useless.

LINE OPTIONS

     Fishing jigs two line types shine as the best choices. Because jigging is a contact sport, for most applications a low stretch super line like Vicious Fishing Braid is a good choice. For small jigs 10 pound test with a 2 pound diameter is a good choice. For larger jigs like swimbait heads, 15 pound test is the perfect choice.

     Some clear water applications really cry out for low visibility lines. In this department nothing beats fluorocarbon line for disappearing in the water. 

     The problem is most fluorocarbon lines are formulated to be overly stiff and hard to manage on a spinning reel. Vicious Fishing solved that problem with their new Pro Elite Fluorocarbon line that soft enough to fish on a spinning reel, yet tough enough to ward off abrasion issues. 

     Absolutely invisible in the water, this new line is the top choice for fishing clear water environments or super spooky fish like trout and steelhead.

     Use six or eight pound test for most walleye, bass and steelhead applications and 10 or 12 pound test for pitching larger swimbaits.

SUMMING IT UP

     Special purpose jigs are the hot ticket to catching more and bigger fish. Modest in cost, but high in performance this year step outside the ordinary and use jigs that match the fishing situation perfectly. Guaranteed once these special purpose jigs get wet, those ordinary roundhead jigs are going to draw dust in the tackle box. 

     The beginning of a new year is the perfect time to start planing a fishing adventure. If pike and walleye are at the top of your hit list, may I suggest Ontario? More specifically I’d recommend visiting Northwestern Ontario. 

     During the past 25 years of fishing all across Ontario I’ve come to the conclusion that Northwestern Ontario offers up the best pike and walleye fishing. Many waters can be reached by vehicle and others are serviced for fly-in camps. Either way the fishing is world class and the atmosphere is impossible to duplicate back home. 

     The trek north is going to eat up a little more of the family vacation budget than fishing closer to home, but the rewards of fishing untapped waters speak for themselves. Great fishing, solitude, unmatched scenery, memories that last a lifetime and a crack at some real trophies are just a few of the reasons I keep coming back for more. 

     I’ve packed for Ontario fishing trips so many times I have the list of necessary items memorized. If you don’t have your gear list memorized here are some suggestions to insure your trip is safe and successful. 

RODS/REELS/LINES

     For any pike and walleye fishing trip don’t leave home without packing at least two spinning and two baitcasting rods. The spinning rods will be ideal for targeting walleye with jigs or slip sinker rigs and the baitcasting rods are perfect for casting heavier pike lures or trolling applications.

     A medium or medium/light action spinning rod in the six to seven foot range is perfect when matched up to a 30 series spinning reel. This reel size is capable of holding ample amounts of 10 pound test super braid line, yet small enough to keep the rod and reel balanced. Superbraid is the ideal choice for jig and rig fishing as the low stretch characteristics make it much easier to detect strikes. I’d suggest rigging up both rod/reel combinations with 10 pound test superbraid line.

     The baitcasting rods must do double duty for both casting heavier pike lures and trolling or bottom bouncing chores. A medium action baitcasting rod in the seven to seven and a half foot range is a solid choice. A 250 size round baitcasting reel is the ideal match up. On one of these reels spool up 30 to 40 pound test superbraid line and on the other 12 to 17 pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon line.

     The rod/reel combination with the superbraid line will be ideal for casting applications. The rod/reel combination with monofilament or fluorocarbon line is going to make a fine trolling or bottom bouncing outfit.

     Equipped with these four rod/reel options, an angler is going to be well prepared for any walleye or pike fishing situation they are likely to encounter.

WALLEYE TACKLE

     The walleye tackle I take on my Ontario trips is amazingly simple. I pack a good assortment of leadhead jigs in the 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 ounce sizes and a few 1/2 or 5/8 ounce jigs. To dress these jigs, include a few packages of Berkley Gulp Minnows in the 2.5 and 3 inch sizes and also the Powerbait Ripple Shad in two or three different color options.

     I also pack an assortment of slip sinkers, swivels and No. 4 and No. 2  rig hooks. Sinker sizes should include a few 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 ounce weights suitable for fishing from 15 to 40 feet of water. 

     To my assortment of jigs and rigging gear, I pack a couple 3700 Plano boxes full of assorted walleye crankbaits including the Storm 1/4 ounce Hot n Tot, Rapala No. 7 Shad Rap, Reef Runner Deep Little Ripper, Rapala Deep Husky Jerk, Salmo No. 6 Hornets and Rapala Deep Taildancer baits.

     The last of my walleye tackle comes in the form of bottom bouncer and spinner rigs. I pack half a dozen each of the size 1, 2 and 3 ounce bottom bouncers and at least a dozen Bait Rigs and Wolverine Tackle two hook crawler harness rigs. 

     All of my walleye tackle fits nicely in a single soft tackle bag designed to handle 3700 size boxes. 

     For pike fishing I pack a second soft tackle bag with essentials including jerkbaits, spinnerbaits, weedless spoons, topwater plugs, jigs and oversized soft plastic swimbait bodies. 

     My favorite jerkbaits are oversized saltwater or muskie fishing versions including the Magnum Bomber Long A, Magnum Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow, Salmo Warrior Crank and Musky Mania Jakes.

    In the spinnerbait/bucktail category I favor the Bait Rigs Viper 2 PreyFish Bucktails with No. 7 blades and the Esox Cobra Tandem Willow Spinnerbait.

     The Johnson Silver Minnow is the best weedless spoon I’ve fished and a few in the larger sizes are mandatory in any pike tackle box.

     For topwater fishing I have yet to see anything that can beat the Poe’s Jackpot. This walk the dog style topwater bait has produced countless pike over the years.

     In the pike jig category, I favor the Bait Rigs Esox Cobra Jigs in 1/2 and 3/4 ounce versions. This jig has a heavy duty wide gap hook and a swimming head that makes them perfect for dressing with action tail grubs or shad bodies. 

     A few of PowerBait five inch Split Belly grubs or Swimmin Shad hand poured grubs are ideal for dressing a pike jig. As with the walleye tackle, all this gear fits nicely into a single soft tackle bag capable of holding half a dozen 3700 boxes.

OTHER ESSENTIALS

Other essential pieces of gear that go along on all my trips to Ontario include a rain suit, fleece jacket/pants, waterproof boots, stocking cap, wool  gloves, Mustang Survival Inflatable PFD, first aid kit, portable sonar/GPS unit, tool kit, headlamp/batteries and a drift sock for those days when the wind kicks up. Add to the list a couple spare spools of fishing line, some leader material in sizes suitable for both pike and walleye fishing, a box with an assortment of suitable sized snaps and swivels and a boater’s safety kit.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Northwestern Ontario offers some mind boggling fishing opportunities for both pike and walleye. Both fly-in and drive to destinations offer up world class fishing opportunities and some of the best tasting fish on Earth. It’s hard to beat the atmosphere of fishing in remote wilderness waters. I guess that’s why I pack up my family and head north every year.




IF YOU GO:




www.leuenbergers.ca/

www.northwest-ontario.com

www.pashalake.com

           Planer boards are one of the most useful fishing tools any troller can own. From walleye to salmon, brown trout to stripers, there is almost no limit to the species that can be targeted more effectively with the help of planer boards.

            Planer boards bring much to fishing, but overwhelmingly the biggest advantage of using these trolling aids centers on the ability to target fish that are completely unaware of the presence of the boat. Presenting lures and live baits out to the side of the boat allows anglers the unprecedented advantage of fishing for undisturbed fish that are feeding naturally. Flatline trolling or trolling directly behind the boat often spooks the fish long before the lures reach them.

ARE FISH REALLY AFRAID OF BOATS?

            Anglers often debate if fish are actually afraid of fishing boats. Certainly at times anglers can catch fish by trolling directly behind the boat. It’s also true that fish can’t reason that inside the fishing boat are anglers who’s intentions are to catch the fish.

            What fish are intimidated by is size. Fish live and die in a predator dominated world with simple rules. Big fish eat small fish. To a school of walleye or salmon, a fishing boat represents something big enough to eat them. Plain and simple.

            If you know what to look for, it’s often possible to see signs that fish are spooking away from the boat. Have you ever noticed diagonal lines on a sonar screen? These lines that angle away from the boat are formed when fish rapidly swim out of the transducer cone and away from the boat. This is clear evidence that fish are often spooked by the presence of the boat, making planer boards all the more valuable.

PLANER BOARD TYPES AND APPLICATIONS

            Planer boards are available in several different designs including those designed to be used in combination with a planer board mast system, in-line boards that attach directly onto the fishing line and mini in-line boards that also attach directly onto the line, but are intended for fishing with small or lightweight lures and baits.

            Effectively, all three types of planer boards accomplish the same goal of getting lures and baits out away from the boat. Some general guidelines apply to using planer boards, but which types is best suited for various kinds of fishing applications often boils down to personal choice.

            Boat size in part dictates which type of planer board is most practical. For example a mast planer board system is most efficient when fished in combination with four or five fishing lines per side of the boat. To accommodate this many lines requires a boat big enough to handle several anglers.

            While a mast system can be used on any size fishing boat, these trolling aids are most often seen in use on larger boats capable of handling four or more anglers comfortably. Most anglers fishing with a mast system are going to be employing large planer boards consisting of two or three boards mounted parallel to one another. Two board planers are the most common choice, but three board planers are a little more stable for fishing in rough waters and can handle the additional drag of fishing up to five lines per side of the boat.

            State fishing regulations also play a role in what planer board type is most practical. For example, in a state like Minnesota that only allows each angler one fishing line, using an expensive planer board mast system to deploy a few lines isn’t practical. On the other hand, in states like Michigan or Wisconsin that allow up to three lines per licensed angler, a planer board mast system allows for the maximum number of fishing lines and lures to be used.           

            The various kinds of in-line planer boards tend to get the most use in smaller boats that routinely fish with six or less lines. There are exceptions however to this general rule. In recent years charter captains and salmon fishermen have shown a  distinct preference for using in-line boards when fishing lead core line or copper line rigs. By selecting different lengths of these weighted lines, anglers can stagger their lures in the water column and easily stack two or even three in-line boards per side of the boat without fear of tangling lines.

            The line fished furthest out to the side of the boat needs to be the most shallow running of the board lines. This way, if a fish is hooked on the outside board, the fish can be reeled in over top of deeper fishing lines without having to clear other lines before fighting a fish.

            A common three board set up for fishing lead core and copper lines involves a line with five colors of lead core (fishing approximately 20’ down) deployed on as the outside line. The second line features 10 colors of lead core line (fishing approximately 40’ down) which becomes the middle line. A third and deeper line is deployed closest to the boat using 300 feet of 45 pound test copper wire (fishing approximately 60’ down) to target deeper fish.

            This common three line set up spaces the lures about 20 feet apart in the water column, saturating the water with lures and allowing fish hooked on shallower running lures to be reeled in without having to first clear other lines. Of course, the amount of lead core or copper line used can vary so long as the angler keeps in mind that shallow running lines need to be set on the outside of the spread and deeper running lines positioned on the inside of the spread.

            In general, in-line boards are popular with walleye anglers who routinely fish from 18-22 foot boats that are capable of handling two or three anglers. It’s important to note however that in-line boards can be used to target a wealth of species including northern pike, musky, stripers and even bass.

            The newest in-line boards on the market are the mini versions that are designed for fishing small or lightweight lures and baits. Mini boards are not large enough to effectively pull deep diving lures or weighted lines out to the side of the boat. These smaller cousins in the in-line family of boards are also not buoyant enough to make them effective for fishing in rough water.

            Mini boards shine best when fishing in calm water, shallow water and/or in combination with lighter tackle. Recently, I filmed a segment of Fishing 411 TV featuring both the Off Shore Tackle Side-Planer and Mini-Board in-line planer boards. We were targeting trophy class post-spawn northern pike that often scatter out on shallow water flats to feed. The lures of choice were shallow diving stickbaits that were used to troll over the top of emerging weed beds. Both of these board designs are ideal for fishing with crankbaits that have little resistance in the water.           

            The larger Side-Planer was rigged to stay on the line using two heavy tension OR16 Snap Weight Clips. When a fish was hooked, the fish and board were reeled in together until the board could be physically removed from the line and the fight continued. This standard rigging method is popular with walleye anglers who prefer to keep a steady tension on the fishing line at all times.

            The mini-boards were rigged using a lighter tension OR10 release on the tow arm of the board and a snap swivel at the back of the board. When a fish was hooked, the line would pop free from the tow arm release and slide down the line via the snap swivel. A bead and swivel was added in line a few feet in front of the lure to prevent the board from sliding all the way to the lure. Rigged in this manner two or three lines can be stacked per side of the boat without any need to clear lines should a fish be hooked on an outside board.

NICHE TROLLING

            Planer boards are a niche in the trolling world that provides anglers the ability to fish a few or a lot of lines out away from the boat. Depending on the type of planer board used, just about any fishing lure, live bait, sinking line or even diving planer can be fished in combination with planer boards to gain invaluable outward lure coverage. Getting out away from the boat covers more water and contacts fish that have no clue a fisherman is in the neighborhood.

            Of all the trolling methods, mastering the use of planer boards may well be the single most important step a troller can make. Just about anything that swims is susceptible to being caught with the help of one planer board type or another.

        I’ve been blessed to have fished in a lot of very cool places. From world class brook trout to walleye, trophy pike, monster musky, king salmon, steelhead, right down to jumbo perch and panfish, I’ve done my part to sample as many fishing opportunities as possible. I’m often asked to share my favorite fishing destinations and to be frank, that chore always leaves me uneasy. Fishing success is so often based on weather and timing, that simply recommending a destination is a slippery slope. It’s possible and ultimately inevitable that even the best fishing destinations are going to turn sour sooner or later.

        Case in point. A few years ago I flew into Kag Lake Lodge in northwestern Ontario. I’ve been to “the Kag” several times before and always enjoyed great fishing action for walleye and northern pike. On this particular trip the weather was lousy. When we arrived the camp manager announced that it had been raining steady the previous seven days. My reply was “good, I’m glad you got the rain out of your system”. For the next seven days it rained cats and dogs. The wind blew a gale and fishing literally sucked. My point is simple. Even world class fishing destinations like Kag Lake are only as good as the environmental conditions that so often dictate fishing success.

        So what is an angler to do when even great fishing destinations are likely to let you down? The answer is simple. I plan my fishing adventures to coincide with the best times of year for the species I’m after and trust that the weather will cooperate. Life is full of risks and fishing is no different. It’s virtually impossible to plan a fishing trip a year in advance and know with certainty that the trip will be a success.

        One of the best ways to hedge your bets is to plan trips that are several days long. That way if the weather is bad a day or two, the whole trip will not get washed out. This rule goes double for bodies of water that are large enough that wind and waves play a major role in even getting on the water.

         During the past two seasons I’ve scheduled 13 days of fishing on Lake Nipigon in northwestern Ontario. Of those 13 days, I was able to fish on Nipigon only five days. The remaining days were too windy to risk a fishing adventure.

         Another option is to have a fallback plan should the weather influence negatively on the primary fishing agenda. That Nipigon trip just referenced is a good example. Because I knew that Nipigon is subject to big waves, I took along some stream trout fishing gear including waders, spinning outfit, appropriate tackle and a small landing net. When the wind made it impossible to fish Nipigon, I took advantage of the spare time to fish for stream brook trout that were not effected by the windy weather.

        The moral of the story is go prepared to fish other species and locations should the weather force a change of plans.

LAKE ERIE CRANBERRY CREEK

           Over 20 years ago I made my first visit to Cranberry Creek Marina near Huron, Ohio to fish for walleye in the fall. Every since that first visit I’ve kept coming back to sample not only the fall walleye fishing, but also great spring fishing for walleye, world class perch fishing and smallmouth fishing that’s second to none.

          If I could only visit Cranberry Creek Marina twice a year, I’d plan a trip in late May or early June to target walleye that transition from the Bass Islands, east to Lorain about that time of year. Trolling spinner rigs on bottom and suspended in the water column routinely produces some of the best walleye fishing on Earth.

          The second visit to Cranberry would be in late October or early November to sample the awesome fall crankbait bite this region is famous for. Trolling deep diving crankbaits like the Reef Runner 800 series or Rapala TDD11 series routinely produces walleye in the 10-14 pound range. There is just no where else I know that an angler has a better chance of catching a double digit walleye than Cranberry Creek Marina in the fall.

LAKE NIPIGON BROOK TROUT

           For the angler who has never caught a brook trout over 20 inches, I recommend visiting Lake Nipigon in northwestern Ontario. The minimum size limit for brook trout on Nipigon is 22 inches! Because this fishery is intensely managed and access to the best fishing areas is limited, brook trout grow to super large sizes. The time to go is late May and early June when the surface water temperature is cold enough that the brook trout are foraging along the shorelines of the many islands. The moment the surface water exceeds 50 degrees, these highly temperature sensitive fish start to seek out deeper water, making them much more difficult to find and catch.

          I recommend using an electric motor to slowly cruise along island shorelines just far enough off shore that a spoon or spinner can be casted to fish that are typically found within a couple feet of shore. The name of the game is covering water to try and contact as many brook trout as possible. A good day on Nipigon yields eight to 10 brook trout in the 20-26 inch range! Duplicating that feat anywhere else is going to be very difficult unless you can afford to fly to the Arctic Circle and fish in waters that get zero angling pressure.

LAKE ERIE STEELHEAD

         Lake Erie is better known for walleye or smallmouth bass than steelhead. The truth is, the north shore of Lake Erie along the Ontario shore is the best off shore steelhead fishing on Earth. In August and early September you can expect to catch limits of steelhead by trolling spoons in water from 60-70 feet deep.

         At this time of year the steelhead are feeding on young of the year smelt that are routinely found in deeper and cooler water. Rarely will these fish be caught any closer to the surface than about 40 feet down. Downriggers, diving planers and lead core line are the most popular methods for getting spoons to the depths steelhead are most likely to be hunting.

         A good day of steelheading on the north shore can produce a four man limit of 20 steelhead and nearly twice that many hook ups! The fishing is good from Wheatley Ontario all the way to Long Point.

BENTON HARBOR SPRING SALMON

          Long about late March or early April, people who live in the snow belt start to get a little stir crazy. One of the best ways I know to beat cabin fever is to target spring coho salmon in southern Lake Michigan. From Benton Harbor south to Michigan City, this region of the lake produces some amazing cold water trolling action for coho that average 18 inches in length. These two year old fish are awesome fighters and super delicious on the table.

         Even better the numbers of fish available is staggering. When the spring coho run is at it’s peak, most boats are going to catch their five fish limit in a couple hours!

         Because the water is very cold at this time of year it’s not necessary to fish very far off shore or to target these fish in deep water. The majority of the spring coho are taken in water less than 40 feet deep.

         Trolling small crankbaits on planer boards is a popular way to target these fish. Small trolling spoons fished on mini-disks or diving planers is also a good way to cash in on coho gold. 

         This fishery also produces a few bonus brown trout, some steelhead action and the occasional lake trout. Some impressive king salmon are also taken while targeting coho.

SUMMING IT UP

         These fishing adventures are just a few of the trips I look forward to enjoying every year. One of the great things about living in the Great Lakes region is we have more fishing opportunities than an angler can enjoy in a lifetime. My goal is to sample as many as possible and report on the best.

         For more information on the destinations outlined above, check out the Fishing 411 YouTube library of fishing adventures. All of the fishing adventures listed above and many others are outlined with the goal of encouraging other anglers to get out and enjoy the excitement and fellowship only sport fishing can provide.