The pursuit of fishing can become an “overwhelming” advocation when it comes to the list of essential gear required. Whenever possible I try to recommend places where a reel or rod can provide “double duty” on a fishing boat, providing the owner more value for their money. In some cases, this just isn’t that practical. Some special purpose reels are so unique, owning them is justified by the fact they are going to help anglers catch lots more fish. End of story.

LINE COUNTER REELS

     Actually the story is just beginning and a good place to kick off the conversation of special purpose reels is with line counters. The market is literally flooded with line counter style trolling reels ranging in price from under $40.00 to upwards of $1,000.00 each. Obviously the more expensive reels provide more quality, longevity and creature comforts. Not every angler however needs or would get value from a top of the line “line counter” reel.

     Line counter reels are available in two types including gear driven mechanical counters and electronic counters. Gear driven counters function by using a set of brass gears that are engaged when the reel spool is rotating. Each rotation of the spool causes the mechanical counter to click away, providing the angler with a relatively accurate assessment of how much line is actually being deployed behind the boat.

     Mechanical line counters are accurate, trustworthy and for the most part affordable. A few high end mechanical line counter reels cost upwards of $200.00, but the majority are retailed for $120.00 or less.

     Electronic line counter reels have actually be around a long time, yet you rarely see these reels in use. Never have these reels became popular in part because of the overwhelming cost of these reels. Only the most serious troller is going to outfit a boat with reels that can range in price from $200.00 to over $1,000.00 each!

     What makes the electronic line counter a viable option is the accuracy they provide. Because the counter is recorded with a digital readout not a mechanical set of gears, electronic reels can take into consideration variables an ordinary line counter reel can’t.

     Say for example you’re trolling with 200 feet of line out behind the boat. Each rotation of the reel spool, the amount of line on the reel decreases and the amount of line that plays off with each rotation decreases. In other words, if you’re letting out 200 clicks on a mechanical line counter reel, you’re not actually letting out 200 feet of line. Mechanical line counters tend to underestimate the amount of line played out when long lead lengths are required.

     Lead length is a critical factor to how deep fishing lures dive and it’s nice to have the lead length as accurate as possible. Still, the question becomes is the cost of an electronic line counter worth the benefits? 

     The short answer for most anglers and angling situations is NO. Electronic line counters are probably more expensive than can be easily justified. Additional advice is to invest in a mechanical line counter that’s in the middle of the road in terms of price. The less expensive reels are not designed to stand up to day in and day out use. Spending $80.00 to $120.00 each on line counter reels will pretty much guarantee those reels will last for many, many years.

GETTING THE MOST FROM LINE COUNTERS

     Most anglers buy their line counter reels as they can afford them. The problem is when one brand goes on sale, the temptation to mix brands becomes overwhelming. 

     Mixing brands and or sizes of line counter reels is a bad habit to get into. The problem is each reel brand and the different reel sizes don’t calibrate the same. What that means is if you have four different reels on your boat, the numbers that the respective counters indicate will be different on each reel, even if the same amount of line is played out! That defeats the whole purpose of having line counter reels in the first place!

     To get the most accuracy from line counter reels it’s very important to use all the same brand and size reels. Mixing and matching will lead to significant problems in that the lead lengths will vary making it tougher to put together a solid trolling pattern.

     It’s also important to load each reel with exactly the same diameter fishing line. If one reel has 10# test and another has 17# test, the thicker 17# test will take up more space on the reel spool. As line is played off, the diameter of the spool will shrink more quickly with thicker 17# line than thinner 10# line that allows more line to be stored on the spool.

     If all the reels are loaded with the same diameter fishing line and the same amount of line is put on each reel, the line counter functions will be as accurate as possible.

CALIBRATING LINE COUNTERS

     It is possible to calibrate different size line counter reels or reels with different line diameters so the counters match. To do so, measure off a set distance -- say 100 feet -- and mark the distance with two stakes. Tie the fishing line to one stake, zero out the line counter and walk to the second stake letting line play off the reel.

     If you get to the second stake which is exactly 100 feet away and the line counter says you have let out 105 feet of line, the reel is loaded with a little too much line. Cut off 20 feet of line and try the same test again. This time the counter will say 103 or 104, indicating you still need to cut a little more line off the reel and try again. When the reel says 100 and you’re standing at the 100’ marker, the reel is perfectly calibrated.

     This process of calibrating a line counter reel can be done with any brand, size or line diameter. Still, it’s easier to simply buy all your reels from the same manufacturer, choose the same size reels and put the same diameter line on them. This way the reel will naturally be accurate without having to calibrate them every time the line needs changing.

SUMMING IT UP

     Line counter reels are for sure a special purpose fishing product. Anyone who trolls will find the investment helps them catch more fish. Those who doubt this nugget of advice are going to have a hard time figuring out the trolling game.

Something about seminars focusing on fishing amaze me. I’ve personally done thousands of seminars myself, worked with countless other anglers in producing the Super Walleye Clinics and I’ve also attended dozens of other seminars conducted by anglers who I respect. At each and every one of these seminars, I’ve picked up information that has made me a better fisherman.

Part of the reason I learned the walleye game so quickly back when I jumped into tournament fishing 25 years ago, was my open mind. I fished with as many fellow anglers as I could fish with, picked the brains of others and over time that melting pot of information got mixed with what I learned myself through countless days on the water. The amount if information I’ve gleaned is amazing and priceless.

Ironically, when I find myself in seminar venues I’m conducting or others are putting on, I look around and the people who come are for the most part average Joe’s who want to be better fishermen. The people missing from these seminars are the army of anglers who think they are good enough they don’t need the information being shared.

I got news for everyone who fishes. No one is beyond learning a trick or two that can make them a better fisherman. No one has all the answers all the time or even part of the time. Fishing is such a complex subject, it takes a lifetime of practice just to master the basics. The finer points of fishing are a light bulb that pops on when you least expect it.

These days I no longer have time to fish tournaments, so that learning curve in my fishing career has come to an end. I supplement that loss by fishing on TV with as many talented anglers as I can line up. Each day on the water my learning curve is on the upswing and that’s exactly the way I intend to keep it.

If one morning I wake up and come to the conclusion I know it all, shoot me because I’ve gone insane. The road to fishing success is a long one and every day there are presentations to refine, things to learn about the fish themselves and most importantly things to learn from others. TAKE NOTES

Back in my college days I developed a system for learning that has served me well my entire life. At lectures I took notes like every other kid in class. After class however I went to the library and copied down those notes a second time. With a little more time to elaborate on points made in class I was helping myself commit to memory important points by simply taking the step to copy those notes and reinforce that information in my mind.

Just before test time, I’d go back and read those notes over and over again until I had the information committed to memory. On test day, I was always confident and my grades proved that point.

So what’s the point here? When we learn things all too often we assume our memory will serve us well. In fact, our memory doesn’t do a very good job of storing information, especially information that’s fleeting. It’s way better to take some notes.

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When saving a waypoint at a place that’s producing fish, don’t just save the waypoint.... Name it! That way the next time you’re fishing the spot you will remember the significance of this particular spot. 

Keep a journal of your fishing trips and in that journal take a few notes regarding fishing conditions, how you were fishing, how successful you were, thoughts on what might work better next time, etc. A log is an important tool in the learning curve. Use it to your advantage instead of trying to remember everything. Some great mind once said, “you should never memorize anything you can easily write down and look up.”

DO IT NOW

How many times have you come home from a fishing trip all excited about something you learned? It happens for me almost every time on the water. I bet you came home and made a mental note concerning things you could change to make the next trip more productive. I also bet, you didn’t bother to do the very things you came to the conclusion were necessary.

After a fishing trip is the perfect time to make necessary changes in your gear. Maybe you need to switch from monofilament line to braided line on a couple reels? Perhaps, the jigs you were using could have been a little better designed and you need to invest in some additional gear? My point is there is a time to do things and it’s right away while it’s fresh in your mind, not months later after you have forgotten all the critical details.

DON’T BE SHY

This is something I’m working hard to teach my youngest son Jake who enjoys fishing and finds himself talking fishing with friends, teachers and other people he sees on a daily basis. When talk turns to fishing, forget about the casual approach. Pump whoever you’re talking with for details. Say your buddy just caught a couple nice steelhead in the Manistee River. Great, now follow up with what did you use to catch them, what part of the river where you fishing in, what was the weather like, were there other people fishing in the same area, etc., etc., etc.?

Fellow fishermen are more than willing to share information. Sometimes that information is a touch of an exaggeration, but mostly the information is accurate and freely shared. Take advantage of that gift by asking the right questions. Don’t assume the angler doesn’t want to share. If you start asking questions and obviously get a stiff arm approach, then you’ve just learned this particular anglers is in no mood to share.

Those who know me best, know I’m always willing to share fishing information with others because I learned many years ago you can’t get information unless you’re willing to give some up. Back in my tournament days I used to be amazed at those guys who walked around all the time stone faced, like the information they had on fishing was somehow better than mine or that of other anglers. These were often the same guys who left for home at the end of the tournament before the checks were passed out! 

Share the information you have with others and you will find them more willing to share with you. Don’t hold back and once you have information, takes some quick notes so you will not forget what you learned before you can put the information to the test.

SUMMING IT UP

This season get a little more serious about your fishing and follow a few simple guidelines that are sure to help you learn and to catch more fish. Keep an open mind. Attend seminars when you have the chance. Read magazine articles, books and watch DVD’s on fishing. The information in these is priceless.

Take notes on key bits of information for future reference. On the water work hard and after fishing, make necessary adjustments quickly before that edge gets dulled. Always be pumping others for information and share information freely with them. Remember the thing about fishing is you can never master it. All we can do is get as skilled as possible because the playing field is constantly changing. That’s exactly what I like most about fishing. It’s a pursuit I can never master, but that doesn’t mean I can’t try!!

     The era of the round head jig is history. These days jigs are special purpose fishing weapons that come in a wealth of shapes, sizes and head designs ideal for casting, vertical jigging, swimming, dragging or even fishing below floats. No more does the fisherman focused on success make one jig type work for every application. 

     The ordinary round head jig is a workhorse, but even this timeless design can’t meet the demands of the modern angler. Not using specific jig designs for different fishing situations is like trying to pound nails with a sledge hammer. A little finesse goes a long ways toward putting more fish in the boat.

STAND UP HEADS

     Stand up head designs are very useful for dragging, vertical jigging and ice fishing applications. Because the hook point is always positioned upwards, fish that bite are much more likely to get hooked compared to other jig designs. My favorite stand-up jig is the Odd Ball produced by Bait Rigs Tackle. These jigs feature a long shank Mustad hook with barbs on the shank to hold plastic in place, a super large eye-tie that’s never painted shut and they come in all the necessary sizes including 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 5/8 and even 3/4 ounce!

     Other good stand-up designs include the Northland Lipstick Jig and Fin-tech Nuckle Ball jig.

SWIMMING JIGS

     Jigs designed for swimming are created with the eye tie coming out the nose of the jighead instead of out the top of the head like an ordinary roundhead jig. This minor modification allows the jig to swim through weeds, brush and rocks without handing up or constantly fouling on bottom debris.

     The Bait Rigs Slo-Poke started this craze in jig fishing many years ago and a wealth of other jigs now micic the swimming action of this classic. The Slo-Poke has a collar to hold soft plastics in place, but this compact jig has live bait fishing written all over it. I fish the Slo-Poke often with minnows, leeches and my personal favorite -- a two inch piece of nightcrawler lightly tipped onto the hook.

     A new product from Bait Rigs the Slo-Poke LS or Long Shank is similar in design, but features a much longer hook shank more suited to fishing a wealth of 3-5 inch long soft plastics commonly used for catching largemouth, smallmouth and walleye.

ACTION JIGS

     Jigs that have a prop or blade to generate additional flash, gurgle and action are also a useful special purpose jig. The Northland Whistler Jig started this craze some years ago and today anglers can pick from a wealth of others including the Blakemore Roadrunner, Reel Bait Walleye Flasher and the Mann’s Little George.

     Because prop jigs create a little more resistance in the water, it’s a good idea to use a slightly heavier model than normal. For example, in water eight feet deep, a 1/8 ounce jig is normally about right. When using prop jigs a 1/4 ounce model would be a better choice in this situation.

     The down side of prop jigs is they don’t function well in weeds or on bottoms that have a lot of debris like rotting leaves or vegetation. The debris tends to clog up the blade’s ability to rotate and flash, lending this design useless.

LINE OPTIONS

     Fishing jigs two line types shine as the best choices. Because jigging is a contact sport, for most applications a low stretch super line like Vicious Fishing Braid is a good choice. For small jigs 10 pound test with a 2 pound diameter is a good choice. For larger jigs like swimbait heads, 15 pound test is the perfect choice.

     Some clear water applications really cry out for low visibility lines. In this department nothing beats fluorocarbon line for disappearing in the water. 

     The problem is most fluorocarbon lines are formulated to be overly stiff and hard to manage on a spinning reel. Vicious Fishing solved that problem with their new Pro Elite Fluorocarbon line that soft enough to fish on a spinning reel, yet tough enough to ward off abrasion issues. 

     Absolutely invisible in the water, this new line is the top choice for fishing clear water environments or super spooky fish like trout and steelhead.

     Use six or eight pound test for most walleye, bass and steelhead applications and 10 or 12 pound test for pitching larger swimbaits.

SUMMING IT UP

     Special purpose jigs are the hot ticket to catching more and bigger fish. Modest in cost, but high in performance this year step outside the ordinary and use jigs that match the fishing situation perfectly. Guaranteed once these special purpose jigs get wet, those ordinary roundhead jigs are going to draw dust in the tackle box. 

     The beginning of a new year is the perfect time to start planing a fishing adventure. If pike and walleye are at the top of your hit list, may I suggest Ontario? More specifically I’d recommend visiting Northwestern Ontario. 

     During the past 25 years of fishing all across Ontario I’ve come to the conclusion that Northwestern Ontario offers up the best pike and walleye fishing. Many waters can be reached by vehicle and others are serviced for fly-in camps. Either way the fishing is world class and the atmosphere is impossible to duplicate back home. 

     The trek north is going to eat up a little more of the family vacation budget than fishing closer to home, but the rewards of fishing untapped waters speak for themselves. Great fishing, solitude, unmatched scenery, memories that last a lifetime and a crack at some real trophies are just a few of the reasons I keep coming back for more. 

     I’ve packed for Ontario fishing trips so many times I have the list of necessary items memorized. If you don’t have your gear list memorized here are some suggestions to insure your trip is safe and successful. 

RODS/REELS/LINES

     For any pike and walleye fishing trip don’t leave home without packing at least two spinning and two baitcasting rods. The spinning rods will be ideal for targeting walleye with jigs or slip sinker rigs and the baitcasting rods are perfect for casting heavier pike lures or trolling applications.

     A medium or medium/light action spinning rod in the six to seven foot range is perfect when matched up to a 30 series spinning reel. This reel size is capable of holding ample amounts of 10 pound test super braid line, yet small enough to keep the rod and reel balanced. Superbraid is the ideal choice for jig and rig fishing as the low stretch characteristics make it much easier to detect strikes. I’d suggest rigging up both rod/reel combinations with 10 pound test superbraid line.

     The baitcasting rods must do double duty for both casting heavier pike lures and trolling or bottom bouncing chores. A medium action baitcasting rod in the seven to seven and a half foot range is a solid choice. A 250 size round baitcasting reel is the ideal match up. On one of these reels spool up 30 to 40 pound test superbraid line and on the other 12 to 17 pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon line.

     The rod/reel combination with the superbraid line will be ideal for casting applications. The rod/reel combination with monofilament or fluorocarbon line is going to make a fine trolling or bottom bouncing outfit.

     Equipped with these four rod/reel options, an angler is going to be well prepared for any walleye or pike fishing situation they are likely to encounter.

WALLEYE TACKLE

     The walleye tackle I take on my Ontario trips is amazingly simple. I pack a good assortment of leadhead jigs in the 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 ounce sizes and a few 1/2 or 5/8 ounce jigs. To dress these jigs, include a few packages of Berkley Gulp Minnows in the 2.5 and 3 inch sizes and also the Powerbait Ripple Shad in two or three different color options.

     I also pack an assortment of slip sinkers, swivels and No. 4 and No. 2  rig hooks. Sinker sizes should include a few 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 ounce weights suitable for fishing from 15 to 40 feet of water. 

     To my assortment of jigs and rigging gear, I pack a couple 3700 Plano boxes full of assorted walleye crankbaits including the Storm 1/4 ounce Hot n Tot, Rapala No. 7 Shad Rap, Reef Runner Deep Little Ripper, Rapala Deep Husky Jerk, Salmo No. 6 Hornets and Rapala Deep Taildancer baits.

     The last of my walleye tackle comes in the form of bottom bouncer and spinner rigs. I pack half a dozen each of the size 1, 2 and 3 ounce bottom bouncers and at least a dozen Bait Rigs and Wolverine Tackle two hook crawler harness rigs. 

     All of my walleye tackle fits nicely in a single soft tackle bag designed to handle 3700 size boxes. 

     For pike fishing I pack a second soft tackle bag with essentials including jerkbaits, spinnerbaits, weedless spoons, topwater plugs, jigs and oversized soft plastic swimbait bodies. 

     My favorite jerkbaits are oversized saltwater or muskie fishing versions including the Magnum Bomber Long A, Magnum Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow, Salmo Warrior Crank and Musky Mania Jakes.

    In the spinnerbait/bucktail category I favor the Bait Rigs Viper 2 PreyFish Bucktails with No. 7 blades and the Esox Cobra Tandem Willow Spinnerbait.

     The Johnson Silver Minnow is the best weedless spoon I’ve fished and a few in the larger sizes are mandatory in any pike tackle box.

     For topwater fishing I have yet to see anything that can beat the Poe’s Jackpot. This walk the dog style topwater bait has produced countless pike over the years.

     In the pike jig category, I favor the Bait Rigs Esox Cobra Jigs in 1/2 and 3/4 ounce versions. This jig has a heavy duty wide gap hook and a swimming head that makes them perfect for dressing with action tail grubs or shad bodies. 

     A few of PowerBait five inch Split Belly grubs or Swimmin Shad hand poured grubs are ideal for dressing a pike jig. As with the walleye tackle, all this gear fits nicely into a single soft tackle bag capable of holding half a dozen 3700 boxes.

OTHER ESSENTIALS

Other essential pieces of gear that go along on all my trips to Ontario include a rain suit, fleece jacket/pants, waterproof boots, stocking cap, wool  gloves, Mustang Survival Inflatable PFD, first aid kit, portable sonar/GPS unit, tool kit, headlamp/batteries and a drift sock for those days when the wind kicks up. Add to the list a couple spare spools of fishing line, some leader material in sizes suitable for both pike and walleye fishing, a box with an assortment of suitable sized snaps and swivels and a boater’s safety kit.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Northwestern Ontario offers some mind boggling fishing opportunities for both pike and walleye. Both fly-in and drive to destinations offer up world class fishing opportunities and some of the best tasting fish on Earth. It’s hard to beat the atmosphere of fishing in remote wilderness waters. I guess that’s why I pack up my family and head north every year.




IF YOU GO:




www.leuenbergers.ca/

www.northwest-ontario.com

www.pashalake.com

           Planer boards are one of the most useful fishing tools any troller can own. From walleye to salmon, brown trout to stripers, there is almost no limit to the species that can be targeted more effectively with the help of planer boards.

            Planer boards bring much to fishing, but overwhelmingly the biggest advantage of using these trolling aids centers on the ability to target fish that are completely unaware of the presence of the boat. Presenting lures and live baits out to the side of the boat allows anglers the unprecedented advantage of fishing for undisturbed fish that are feeding naturally. Flatline trolling or trolling directly behind the boat often spooks the fish long before the lures reach them.

ARE FISH REALLY AFRAID OF BOATS?

            Anglers often debate if fish are actually afraid of fishing boats. Certainly at times anglers can catch fish by trolling directly behind the boat. It’s also true that fish can’t reason that inside the fishing boat are anglers who’s intentions are to catch the fish.

            What fish are intimidated by is size. Fish live and die in a predator dominated world with simple rules. Big fish eat small fish. To a school of walleye or salmon, a fishing boat represents something big enough to eat them. Plain and simple.

            If you know what to look for, it’s often possible to see signs that fish are spooking away from the boat. Have you ever noticed diagonal lines on a sonar screen? These lines that angle away from the boat are formed when fish rapidly swim out of the transducer cone and away from the boat. This is clear evidence that fish are often spooked by the presence of the boat, making planer boards all the more valuable.

PLANER BOARD TYPES AND APPLICATIONS

            Planer boards are available in several different designs including those designed to be used in combination with a planer board mast system, in-line boards that attach directly onto the fishing line and mini in-line boards that also attach directly onto the line, but are intended for fishing with small or lightweight lures and baits.

            Effectively, all three types of planer boards accomplish the same goal of getting lures and baits out away from the boat. Some general guidelines apply to using planer boards, but which types is best suited for various kinds of fishing applications often boils down to personal choice.

            Boat size in part dictates which type of planer board is most practical. For example a mast planer board system is most efficient when fished in combination with four or five fishing lines per side of the boat. To accommodate this many lines requires a boat big enough to handle several anglers.

            While a mast system can be used on any size fishing boat, these trolling aids are most often seen in use on larger boats capable of handling four or more anglers comfortably. Most anglers fishing with a mast system are going to be employing large planer boards consisting of two or three boards mounted parallel to one another. Two board planers are the most common choice, but three board planers are a little more stable for fishing in rough waters and can handle the additional drag of fishing up to five lines per side of the boat.

            State fishing regulations also play a role in what planer board type is most practical. For example, in a state like Minnesota that only allows each angler one fishing line, using an expensive planer board mast system to deploy a few lines isn’t practical. On the other hand, in states like Michigan or Wisconsin that allow up to three lines per licensed angler, a planer board mast system allows for the maximum number of fishing lines and lures to be used.           

            The various kinds of in-line planer boards tend to get the most use in smaller boats that routinely fish with six or less lines. There are exceptions however to this general rule. In recent years charter captains and salmon fishermen have shown a  distinct preference for using in-line boards when fishing lead core line or copper line rigs. By selecting different lengths of these weighted lines, anglers can stagger their lures in the water column and easily stack two or even three in-line boards per side of the boat without fear of tangling lines.

            The line fished furthest out to the side of the boat needs to be the most shallow running of the board lines. This way, if a fish is hooked on the outside board, the fish can be reeled in over top of deeper fishing lines without having to clear other lines before fighting a fish.

            A common three board set up for fishing lead core and copper lines involves a line with five colors of lead core (fishing approximately 20’ down) deployed on as the outside line. The second line features 10 colors of lead core line (fishing approximately 40’ down) which becomes the middle line. A third and deeper line is deployed closest to the boat using 300 feet of 45 pound test copper wire (fishing approximately 60’ down) to target deeper fish.

            This common three line set up spaces the lures about 20 feet apart in the water column, saturating the water with lures and allowing fish hooked on shallower running lures to be reeled in without having to first clear other lines. Of course, the amount of lead core or copper line used can vary so long as the angler keeps in mind that shallow running lines need to be set on the outside of the spread and deeper running lines positioned on the inside of the spread.

            In general, in-line boards are popular with walleye anglers who routinely fish from 18-22 foot boats that are capable of handling two or three anglers. It’s important to note however that in-line boards can be used to target a wealth of species including northern pike, musky, stripers and even bass.

            The newest in-line boards on the market are the mini versions that are designed for fishing small or lightweight lures and baits. Mini boards are not large enough to effectively pull deep diving lures or weighted lines out to the side of the boat. These smaller cousins in the in-line family of boards are also not buoyant enough to make them effective for fishing in rough water.

            Mini boards shine best when fishing in calm water, shallow water and/or in combination with lighter tackle. Recently, I filmed a segment of Fishing 411 TV featuring both the Off Shore Tackle Side-Planer and Mini-Board in-line planer boards. We were targeting trophy class post-spawn northern pike that often scatter out on shallow water flats to feed. The lures of choice were shallow diving stickbaits that were used to troll over the top of emerging weed beds. Both of these board designs are ideal for fishing with crankbaits that have little resistance in the water.           

            The larger Side-Planer was rigged to stay on the line using two heavy tension OR16 Snap Weight Clips. When a fish was hooked, the fish and board were reeled in together until the board could be physically removed from the line and the fight continued. This standard rigging method is popular with walleye anglers who prefer to keep a steady tension on the fishing line at all times.

            The mini-boards were rigged using a lighter tension OR10 release on the tow arm of the board and a snap swivel at the back of the board. When a fish was hooked, the line would pop free from the tow arm release and slide down the line via the snap swivel. A bead and swivel was added in line a few feet in front of the lure to prevent the board from sliding all the way to the lure. Rigged in this manner two or three lines can be stacked per side of the boat without any need to clear lines should a fish be hooked on an outside board.

NICHE TROLLING

            Planer boards are a niche in the trolling world that provides anglers the ability to fish a few or a lot of lines out away from the boat. Depending on the type of planer board used, just about any fishing lure, live bait, sinking line or even diving planer can be fished in combination with planer boards to gain invaluable outward lure coverage. Getting out away from the boat covers more water and contacts fish that have no clue a fisherman is in the neighborhood.

            Of all the trolling methods, mastering the use of planer boards may well be the single most important step a troller can make. Just about anything that swims is susceptible to being caught with the help of one planer board type or another.

        I’ve been blessed to have fished in a lot of very cool places. From world class brook trout to walleye, trophy pike, monster musky, king salmon, steelhead, right down to jumbo perch and panfish, I’ve done my part to sample as many fishing opportunities as possible. I’m often asked to share my favorite fishing destinations and to be frank, that chore always leaves me uneasy. Fishing success is so often based on weather and timing, that simply recommending a destination is a slippery slope. It’s possible and ultimately inevitable that even the best fishing destinations are going to turn sour sooner or later.

        Case in point. A few years ago I flew into Kag Lake Lodge in northwestern Ontario. I’ve been to “the Kag” several times before and always enjoyed great fishing action for walleye and northern pike. On this particular trip the weather was lousy. When we arrived the camp manager announced that it had been raining steady the previous seven days. My reply was “good, I’m glad you got the rain out of your system”. For the next seven days it rained cats and dogs. The wind blew a gale and fishing literally sucked. My point is simple. Even world class fishing destinations like Kag Lake are only as good as the environmental conditions that so often dictate fishing success.

        So what is an angler to do when even great fishing destinations are likely to let you down? The answer is simple. I plan my fishing adventures to coincide with the best times of year for the species I’m after and trust that the weather will cooperate. Life is full of risks and fishing is no different. It’s virtually impossible to plan a fishing trip a year in advance and know with certainty that the trip will be a success.

        One of the best ways to hedge your bets is to plan trips that are several days long. That way if the weather is bad a day or two, the whole trip will not get washed out. This rule goes double for bodies of water that are large enough that wind and waves play a major role in even getting on the water.

         During the past two seasons I’ve scheduled 13 days of fishing on Lake Nipigon in northwestern Ontario. Of those 13 days, I was able to fish on Nipigon only five days. The remaining days were too windy to risk a fishing adventure.

         Another option is to have a fallback plan should the weather influence negatively on the primary fishing agenda. That Nipigon trip just referenced is a good example. Because I knew that Nipigon is subject to big waves, I took along some stream trout fishing gear including waders, spinning outfit, appropriate tackle and a small landing net. When the wind made it impossible to fish Nipigon, I took advantage of the spare time to fish for stream brook trout that were not effected by the windy weather.

        The moral of the story is go prepared to fish other species and locations should the weather force a change of plans.

LAKE ERIE CRANBERRY CREEK

           Over 20 years ago I made my first visit to Cranberry Creek Marina near Huron, Ohio to fish for walleye in the fall. Every since that first visit I’ve kept coming back to sample not only the fall walleye fishing, but also great spring fishing for walleye, world class perch fishing and smallmouth fishing that’s second to none.

          If I could only visit Cranberry Creek Marina twice a year, I’d plan a trip in late May or early June to target walleye that transition from the Bass Islands, east to Lorain about that time of year. Trolling spinner rigs on bottom and suspended in the water column routinely produces some of the best walleye fishing on Earth.

          The second visit to Cranberry would be in late October or early November to sample the awesome fall crankbait bite this region is famous for. Trolling deep diving crankbaits like the Reef Runner 800 series or Rapala TDD11 series routinely produces walleye in the 10-14 pound range. There is just no where else I know that an angler has a better chance of catching a double digit walleye than Cranberry Creek Marina in the fall.

LAKE NIPIGON BROOK TROUT

           For the angler who has never caught a brook trout over 20 inches, I recommend visiting Lake Nipigon in northwestern Ontario. The minimum size limit for brook trout on Nipigon is 22 inches! Because this fishery is intensely managed and access to the best fishing areas is limited, brook trout grow to super large sizes. The time to go is late May and early June when the surface water temperature is cold enough that the brook trout are foraging along the shorelines of the many islands. The moment the surface water exceeds 50 degrees, these highly temperature sensitive fish start to seek out deeper water, making them much more difficult to find and catch.

          I recommend using an electric motor to slowly cruise along island shorelines just far enough off shore that a spoon or spinner can be casted to fish that are typically found within a couple feet of shore. The name of the game is covering water to try and contact as many brook trout as possible. A good day on Nipigon yields eight to 10 brook trout in the 20-26 inch range! Duplicating that feat anywhere else is going to be very difficult unless you can afford to fly to the Arctic Circle and fish in waters that get zero angling pressure.

LAKE ERIE STEELHEAD

         Lake Erie is better known for walleye or smallmouth bass than steelhead. The truth is, the north shore of Lake Erie along the Ontario shore is the best off shore steelhead fishing on Earth. In August and early September you can expect to catch limits of steelhead by trolling spoons in water from 60-70 feet deep.

         At this time of year the steelhead are feeding on young of the year smelt that are routinely found in deeper and cooler water. Rarely will these fish be caught any closer to the surface than about 40 feet down. Downriggers, diving planers and lead core line are the most popular methods for getting spoons to the depths steelhead are most likely to be hunting.

         A good day of steelheading on the north shore can produce a four man limit of 20 steelhead and nearly twice that many hook ups! The fishing is good from Wheatley Ontario all the way to Long Point.

BENTON HARBOR SPRING SALMON

          Long about late March or early April, people who live in the snow belt start to get a little stir crazy. One of the best ways I know to beat cabin fever is to target spring coho salmon in southern Lake Michigan. From Benton Harbor south to Michigan City, this region of the lake produces some amazing cold water trolling action for coho that average 18 inches in length. These two year old fish are awesome fighters and super delicious on the table.

         Even better the numbers of fish available is staggering. When the spring coho run is at it’s peak, most boats are going to catch their five fish limit in a couple hours!

         Because the water is very cold at this time of year it’s not necessary to fish very far off shore or to target these fish in deep water. The majority of the spring coho are taken in water less than 40 feet deep.

         Trolling small crankbaits on planer boards is a popular way to target these fish. Small trolling spoons fished on mini-disks or diving planers is also a good way to cash in on coho gold. 

         This fishery also produces a few bonus brown trout, some steelhead action and the occasional lake trout. Some impressive king salmon are also taken while targeting coho.

SUMMING IT UP

         These fishing adventures are just a few of the trips I look forward to enjoying every year. One of the great things about living in the Great Lakes region is we have more fishing opportunities than an angler can enjoy in a lifetime. My goal is to sample as many as possible and report on the best.

         For more information on the destinations outlined above, check out the Fishing 411 YouTube library of fishing adventures. All of the fishing adventures listed above and many others are outlined with the goal of encouraging other anglers to get out and enjoy the excitement and fellowship only sport fishing can provide.

            Winter bluegill fishing is something I look forward to with much enthusiasm. In part I like ice fishing for gills because catching high quality fish is challenging. Secondly, I personally feel that a bluegill is the best tasting of all table fish.
            Catching  bluegills in the eight, nine and 10 inch range is getting surprisingly difficult. Because these fish are so easy to find and catch in the spring when they spawn, lots of lakes get over pressured leading to fisheries that rarely produce good numbers of adult sized gills.
            Also, a lot of lakes simply don’t have the right ingredients to generate big bluegills. Forage is the key thing to keep in mind when scouting out bluegill lakes. Because bluegill feed primarily on aquatic insects, a lake has to have an abundance of bugs to choose from. Lakes with lots of soft bottom, silt and mucky areas produce the greatest concentrations of aquatic insects. Lakes that are made up primarily of sand, gravel or rock bottom substrate are generally poor bluegill lakes.
            Finding adult bluegills is a lot like hunting for trophy whitetail deer. Most places don’t produce trophy bucks because hunting pressure prevents the deer from living long enough to reach bragging size. The same is true of bluegills.

CONSIDER SELECTIVE HARVEST
          My family loves to eat bluegills, but over harvesting is one of the biggest problems associated with managing bluegill fisheries. In my home state of Michigan an angler can legally keep a very generous 25 bluegills. My personal self imposed limit is about half that or 12 fish per trip. I’ve settled on this number because a dozen nice bluegill is plenty to feed my family of four. By limiting the number of adult bluegill I harvest on any given fishing trip, I’m helping to maintain a healthy age class balance of fish in the lake and increasing the odds of catching quality fish on every trip. 
             I also strongly feel that “fresh” fish tastes better than fish which have been frozen. By bringing home just enough bluegills for a meal of fresh fish, and not trying to stock the freezer, I’m insuring that no fish gets wasted. Nothing bothers me more than fish that ends up  buried in the freezer, freezer burned and wasted    

A BLUEGILL HARVESTING SYSTEM
           The success I enjoy catching bluegills in the winter is made possible not by one or two elements, but rather by a fishing system that allows me to routinely harvest fish trip after trip. This fish harvesting system involves a very specific type of rod, reel, fishing line, tear drop jig, bait, fishing electronics and a light enough shelter to allow a run and gun fishing approach.

ROD TALK
           Ironically, I’m not a big fan of the expensive and ultra high quality ice fishing rods that have hit the market in recent years. I like nice things as much as the next guy, but high quality graphite is a very fragile material, especially when exposed to bitter cold conditions. Paying $30.00 for an ice fishing rod only to break it the first time out is not my idea of a good investment.
            My theory regarding ice fishing rods for bluegills goes a different direction. The rod doesn’t need to be made from expensive graphite to be effective. I actually favor inexpensive fiberglass models that feature a light enough action that the rod tip telegraphs the strike. In the old days I used spring bobbers to accomplish this goal. These days I’ve abandoned the spring bobber in favor of using rods with very light action tips and enough backbone to deliver a strong hook set. 
           It helps if the rod tip is also brightly colored so it contrasts against the background of snow and ice. This simple feature makes it much easier to detect very subtle movements of the rod which in turn are indicating strikes.
           For open air fishing, a rod in the 36-48 inch range is perfect as it allows the angler a better opportunity to pick up slack line on the hook set. Unfortunately, these longer rods don’t function very well inside a portable shelter. Inside an ice shanty, I fish with 30 inch rods that are the best compromise of length and action.

FISHING LINE
           Bluegill fishing calls for thin lines no larger in diameter than two pound test. I’m a big fan of high visibility fishing lines for their ability to help spot line movements that indicate strikes. Vicious Panfish comes in a bright yellow color that’s just about perfect for bluegill fishing.
           High visibility line is a great tool for detecting strikes, but I don’t want to tie my tear drop jigs directly onto line that I feel fish can see. Instead, I tie on a 24-36 inch leader of clear two pound test line and tie the tear drop onto the clear leader.

SMALL REELS
            A bluegill rod for ice fishing needs to be equipped with an ultra light spinning reel. The size 10 or 15 reels are ideal for bluegill fishing, but the majority of the reels that come on ice fishing combinations are literally goint to fall apart in one or two seasons. My advice is to spend at least $30.00 on a reel that will provide many years of trouble free service. Anything less is going to fail the angler at the worst possible moment.

TEAR DROPS
           The world of ice fishing tear drops is cluttered with about a thousand choices. Personally I break tear drops down into to simple categories including ones that hang vertical in the water and ones that hang horizontal in the water.
            Interestingly enough on some days bluegill tend to favor the vertical presentation and on others the horizontal look triggers more strikes. I rig up rods both types of tear drop jigs so I’m always prepared on the ice to make quick changes without having to take the time to cut and retie.

FAVORITE RIG
            My favorite bluegill tear drop rig is actually two tear drops tied onto the same leader. I start by taking about 36 inches of two pound test clear line and snelling a vertical tear drop called the Bait Rigs Cobra Panfish jig onto the line in about the middle of the leader. Next I tie on a horizontal tear drop onto the bottom of the leader leaving a space of about 12 inches between the two jigs. 
            The rig is finished by tying a loop knot at the opposite end and also tying a loop knot on the main line coming from the rod tip. By connecting the two loop knots, I create a two hook leader that allows me to have both a vertical and horizontal presentation at the same time.
            When the gills are active, I routinely catch two at a time. Most of the time however, either the vertical or horizontal tear drop catches the lion share of the fish. If I determine they prefer the vertical tear drop, I switch to a rod rigged with two vertical tear drops. If the horizontal jig is catching the most fish I switch to a rod equipped with two horizontal jigs rigged like a drop shot rig.

SONAR
             The argument over which type of sonar is best for ice fishing continues to rage on. Some guys favor flashers, others prefer liquid crystal graphs and still others find that video has key advantages. Personally I think it boils down to what an angler is effective using.
             I grew up fishing flashers and have lots of confidence in them. The blips of light tell me everything I need to know to find and catch bluegill through the ice.
            That stated, a lot of anglers are more comfortable with the liquid crystal graphs that provide an easier to interpret picture. So long as you can identify fish and where your bait is in the water, both flashers and LCG units are effective tools.
            Video has the advantage of actually confirming the species and also indicating bites that are so subtle the rod tip doesn’t even move. This is clearly an advantage in catching ultra light biting bluegills. The problem with video is it only looks one direction, whereas flashers and LGG units provide the angler a 360 degree circle of coverage.

SHELTERS
            The way to catch bluegills is to remain mobile enough to move and keep moving until you find fish. An ice shelter provides creature comforts, but if that shelter is heavy enough or complex enough to set up that it prevents the angler from moving at the drop of a hat the outcome is obvious.
             When the flip style shelters hit the market a few years ago I fell in love with them for their ability to keep one angler warm, comfortable and mobile. Then things got ugly as these same companies started producing bigger and more complex shelters. Pretty quick the market was flooded with “portable” shelters that are about as portable as a one car garage!
               A one persons shelter is just right. Two person shelters are too big and heavy to transport easily. The bigger three and four man shelters are great if you want to fish in one spot all day, but useless for serious bluegill fishing.
             My son Jake and I each have a one man shelter. Two shelters easily fit in the back of a pick up truck and each is roomy enough to store our related gear including propane heater, rods, tackle box, sonar, gloves, creepers, etc.
             Because everything we need for a day of bluegill fishing fits nicely inside our one man shelters, we can hit the ice, divide and conquer. Jake and I carry portable radios so we can communicate what’s working and what’s not, so we both end up on the fish. 

FINAL THOUGHTS
           This strategy for catching bluegills amounts to a system that involves some pretty specific gear and a fishing approach that’s based on being mobile enough to move and move some more until fish are located. Time and time again the run and gun approach has allowed us to find quality bluegills. At that point the real fun begins.

            If by some strange force of nature I was forced to fish through the ice without the benefit of sonar or underwater video, I’d rather hang up my stocking cap than fish without electronics! That’s a strong statement, but a testament to how essential sonar has become for ice fishing applications.
            When I was a kid learning to fish on ice, we didn’t have the luxury of sonar and spent the majority of our time fishing tight to the bottom. When the bluegills, crappie or perch were on the bottom all was good, but just as often these fish suspend in the water column. Unknowingly fishing below a school of panfish is the kiss of death as these fish are simply not going to move downwards in the water column to feed. The anatomy of a fish allows them to see things above them, not below them.

PRIMARY SONAR BENEFITS           

            There are three primary benefits to using sonar for ice fishing. First and foremost using sonar confirms the location of fish. No matter how good the lure or bait might be, if no fish are present fishing in that location is a waste of time.
            Secondly, sonar confirms the precise location of fish in the water column. Because the sonar clearly marks both fish and the lure, it’s easy for the angler to raise or lower the lure to be in the best possible position to get attention from fish.
           Thirdly, by closely monitoring fish marks on the sonar it’s possible to actually determine the activity level of fish. I often tease fish into biting by presenting a bait right on their nose and then slowly lifting the bait up in the water column simulating food that’s about to get away. It’s amazing how often I can pull a fish up off bottom several feet before it strikes.

SECONDARY BENEFITS OF SONAR

            In addition to finding fish, confirming their location in the water column and also determining the activity level of those fish, sonar gives us other important clues that can lead to fishing success. With the help of sonar it’s possible to confirm the location of key cover types including weeds, submerged wood or rocks.
            It’s also possible to identify soft bottom areas compared to hard bottom areas. Certain species like bluegill that feed heavily on aquatic insects are much more likely to be found on soft bottom areas that support the maximum amount of insect life.
           The presence of baitfish can also be confirmed with a sonar unit, further helping to provide valuable pieces to the puzzle. Collectively the information we gain as a result of using electronics while ice fishing can be the difference in success or failure. Not all fishing electronics are created equal however.

FLASHER UNITS

            Flasher units were the first commercially produced sonar units to hit the market in the late 60’s and they continue to be useful fishing tool for the modern ice fisherman. Flasher units provide realtime information about the presence of fish, the relative size of these fish, the location of these fish in the water column, bottom composition and much more. The problem with flashers is they require a trained eye to spot all this information.
            To the casual observer, a flasher unit is little more than a bunch of different colored blinking lights. With a little coaching, anyone can learn to read a flasher effectively. 
             All flasher units offer various depth zone setting. To get the most from a flasher the depth zone setting must be matched as closely as possible to the actual depth. Taking this simple step insures that most of the available screen is being used to display information.
            Secondly, the gain or power setting must  be adjusted properly. If the gain is not set high enough, important information may not appear on the screen. If the gain is set to high, the screen will become cluttered with too many false signals that are impossible to interpret.
            When the unit is first turned on, slowly turn up the gain or power switch until a clear bottom signal appears. Drop your lure into the hole and check to see if you can spot your lure as it sinks. If the lure doesn’t appear on the flasher dial, turn up the gain slightly until the lure appears as a thin band of light.
             In general it’s important to have the gain adjusted so the bottom signal is strong and so lures and fish mark clearly. It’s counter productive to turn the gain up too high as clutter on the screen makes it impossible to interpret important signals. Learning to balance the gain setting is part of using a flasher. In deeper water more gain is required than in shallow water. Also in soft bottom areas the gain must be set higher than in hard bottom areas that do a better job of returning echos.

LIQUID CRYSTAL GRAPHS

            Liquid crystal graphs are hands down the most popular sonar units among anglers. Unfortunately, LCG were designed with open water fishing in mind, not ice fishing. From a stationary position typical of ice fishing, the arch shaped marks that routinely appear on the screen of a LCG unit do not occur. Instead the marks indicating fish show as continuous thin lines on the screen.
           The reason marks show as lines is simple. Normally a LCG is used in a boat that is moving in the water. As fish move in and out of the cone angle of sound waves, they record as the familiar arch or what anglers call hooks.
            Because in a ice fishing situation the sonar unit is in a stationary position and often the fish below the ice are relatively stationary, the fish doesn’t quickly come in and out of the cone of sound waves.
            Essentially the information an angler needs is being displayed on the LCG screen, it just looks different than when using the unit in open water. Unlike a flasher unit, a liquid crystal graph does not offer data in real time. It takes a few seconds for the data to be displayed on the LCG screen.
            Some modern LCG units also feature digital flasher screens that function almost exactly like a true spinning flasher unit. The data from a digital flasher unit is displayed in real time. Units like the Lowrance Elite 5 allow anglers to split the screen and view both the flasher screen and LCG screen at the same time, providing both perspectives.

VIDEO

            Video units are the newcomer on the ice fishing scene. Essentially waterproof video cameras that show anglers a wealth of information, a video camera can document the presence of fish and identify the species in question. Video can also confirm details about weed types, bottom composition and even help detect strikes so light the angler can’t feel them.
        The biggest disadvantage of video electronics units is they only look in one direction and have a relatively narrow field of view. A flasher or LCG unit has a 360 degree cone of coverage. The blind spot video units suffer from is exactly why I prefer to do my primary fishing with sonar and use video only to confirm certain specifics like fish species or cover types.

            That stated, there are times when fish are biting especially light and using a video unit can confirm when a fish actually has the bait/lure in it’s mouth. This is especially true when targeting perch or other light biting panfish found in deep water.

SUMMING IT UP

            Incorporating sonar or underwater video while ice fishing gives anglers a fighting chance at locating fish and keeping their baits in the strike zone. Without electronics anglers are literally fishing blind and that’s never good.

            Not many years ago I routinely rigged my boats with a small gasoline kicker motor that handled nearly all the trolling chores. In the beginning, I started out using small (9.9 to 15 horsepower) gasoline motors as kickers. These outboards did a pretty good job of handling trolling chores, but they were really designed as primary power for small boats, not kickers on bigger boats.
           Mounted on the transom of a walleye boat or other Deep V small outboards had a major shortcoming. None of these motors could take the abuse dished out by those of us who routinely fished on the rough waters of the Great Lakes.
          In rough water the kicker motor would get jerked and banged around so much that the bracket that attaches the powerhead to the transom would literally snap like a toothpick. If I crushed one kicker motor bracket, I must have broke a dozen over the years, costing me a bundle in repair bills and lost time on the water.
          Strapping the outboard in the tilted up position while running helped to reduce bracket failures, but this was only a band-aid solution and unstrapping the kicker every time you needed it was a less than desirable solution to the problem.
          Finally after a bunch walleye pros like myself spent years preaching to the outboard manufacturers, the first beefed up kicker motors started to appear on the market. In addition to having stronger transom mounting brackets, most of these trolling motors also featured electric start and power trim/tilt.
         Keeping in mind that about the same time these beefed up versions of kicker motors designed for multi-species boats started to appear, four stroke technology was also kicking into full swing. The extra weight of the four stroke motors compared the two stroke outboards that preceded them, coupled with adding additional weight in trim units, electric start, etc., quickly turned these small outboards into a whole new animal with a whole new set of problems.
          Kickers designed for walleye and other multi-species boats suddenly became so heavy they couldn’t be used on a lot of boats, especially models less than 20 foot in length. The problem is that smaller boats simply couldn’t handle the extra weight resting on the transom. Even among 20-22 foot Deep V models, many boat owners experienced performance issues, like slow holeshot, proposing and having trouble staying on plane as a result of the increased weight.

A DIFFERENT APPROACH

            About four years ago I stopped rigging kicker motors on my boats and moved in a different direction. This transformation in boat control methods occurred at the same time I discovered Evinrude’s E-Tec outboards.
          The E-Tec is a two stroke outboard that idles down to much slower speeds than four stroke motors and other two stroke outboards. The secret to the E-Tec is in the computer controlled oil injection system that delivers a precise mixture of oil and gasoline at all RPM levels.
          When I started using E-Tec motors I quickly discovered these outboards have no smoke and no carbon fouling of the spark plugs. Even at trolling speeds the engine will idle all day without so much as a hiccup! It soon became apparent that I didn’t need a kicker for trolling things like spoons and crankbaits that are routinely fished at speeds from 2-3.5 mph. Amazingly I discovered that even the bigger V6 models idle and run smoothly at speeds down to 2.0 mph!

WHAT ABOUT SLOWER TROLLING SPEEDS?

            For presentations like spinner trolling that require slower trolling speeds anglers have a couple other options to consider. Electric motors designed to mount on the cavitation plate of the primary outboard do an amazing job at slow trolling speeds.
           Because these electric motors use an infinitely adjustable rheostat switch the trolling speed can be adjusted with much more control than when trolling with gasoline kicker motors that tend to speed up and slow down while running.
           With one of these electric motors it’s possible to precisely control trolling speeds down to 1/10th of a mph. That is literally impossible with a gasoline kicker!
           Another option is to use a bow mounted electric trolling motor that features a power drive or auto-pilot style power head. The power head design on these electric motors provides forward momentum without having to manually steer the motor like is required with push-pull cable driven motors.
          Again, this electric motor option provides forward thrust that can be infinitely adjusted so trolling speed can be tweaked to literally any speed required. A growing number of anglers are rigging both styles of electric motors on their boats instead of investing in a gasoline kicker motor. Available in both 24 and 36 volt systems these electric motors will provide enough power to troll all day on one charge. In addition to being able to provide infinite trolling speed options and hours of trolling enjoyment, the electric motor delivers a quiet and stealthy approach. 

OTHER OPTIONS TO CONSIDER

            Combining a two stroke outboard that idles and trolls well, with an electric motor that can provide super slow trolling speeds adds up to a boat control system that’s hard to beat. Not using a traditional gasoline kicker motor saves cost, weight and improves both boat performance and fuel economy.
           To get the most from their two stroke outboards, some anglers are starting to mount auto-pilots that are designed to operate through the power steering controls. Most fishing boats that are equipped with a V6 outboard feature hydraulic steering controls that adapt readily to auto-pilots like the Simrad AP2403VRF AutoPilot or the S1000 produced by Raymarine.
          These auto-pilots are affordable in price and can be interfaced with existing GPS systems on board to allow for route trolling, cloverleaf trolling, circle trolling, etc. The other advantage of this type of auto-pilot is they are controlled with remote devices that allow direction to be changed from any position in the boat. 
            Matching up an steering driven auto-pilot to a V6 outboard equipped boat pioneers some new ground. Typically auto-pilots have been reserved for use on larger I/O style boats.
           With the new wireless auto-pilot designs and the fact most boats now feature outboards with hydraulic steering controls, there is no reason an auto-pilot can’t be mounted on smaller outboard style fishing boats.

SUMMING IT UP

            The age of the gasoline kicker motor may have come and gone. With more sophisticated and useful primary outboards and new boat control products now available, the traditional approach of using a kicker motor for all trolling chores is gradually starting to change.
           One thing is for certain, it’s increasingly obvious that there is a niche out there among anglers who want to troll, but are less than excited about mounting an expensive and heavy kicker motor on their boat.

 

            Trolling is one of those fishing methods that cries out for rod holders and often lots of them. In part this is true because most trollers are using multiple rods. However, a handy mounted rod holder is useful even if the angler is only trolling with one line.
            Case in point: Some fishing methods are more productive when the rod is positioned in a holder rather than while being hand held. Good examples include fishing a slow death rig for walleye, bottom bouncer rigging for walleye, spider rigging for crappie, hot shotting for steelhead, etc., etc. Each of these fishing methods requires that the rod do most of the work in regards to telegraphing the bite and also setting the hook. Positioning the rod in a conveniently located rod holder is the best way fish for a wealth of presentations. Part of the problem is having access to a rod holder! Not all boats are set up to accept rod holders and even those that do, rarely have rod holders mounted in the correct places.

            In recent years I’ve solved this problem by rigging all my boats with Bert’s Custom Tackle tracks, www.teclausa.com/bert/ that accept a wealth of fishing accessories including various rod holder designs. Simplicity and versatility are the features of the track system that sold me the first time I tried it. I can literally mount a rod holder in any position in a boat I need it and within seconds remove it or replace it with any number of a dozen other important fishing accessories.
           The track is available in various lengths to facilitate mounting it on almost any flat surface. The track can also be rail mounted making it handy for rigging on boats that don’t have flat gunwale surfaces or on boats that the gunwales are too narrow.

            My Starcraft features lots of flat surfaces ideal for mounting track. A limited amount of track comes standard with the boat and I in turn add additional pieces of track in certain locations. Normally at the back of the boat on both the starboard and port sides I mount a four foot length of track. Near the console I mount two six inch lengths of track. Further forward in the boat I mount two more sets of six to 12 inch track on the gunwales opposite the bow seat. 

WHAT GOES WHERE AND WHY

            At the back of the boat I prefer to use the Bert’s Ratcheting Rod Holders which can be adjusted both vertically and horizontally. This style of rod holder is super strong and finds a lot of use on my boat for fishing diving planers and also for fishing with a planer board mast system.
           The six inch tracks near the console accept a set of Bert’s Swivel Rod Trees which are most often used for fishing in-line planer boards. Because these rod holders can be swiveled they are never in the way at the dock.
           At the bow the remaining tracks are used most often with cradle style rod holders and electric motor trolling applications. Rigged in this manner, I’m able to adapt to virtually any fishing situation that requires a rod holder and do it in seconds. When not in use, everything slips out of the tracks and is easily stored on board or in my garage until I need it.
           If I opt to sell my boat, I can remove all the accessories and simply leave the track on the boat. When I purchase a new boat, all I need to do is mount track in the proper places and my rod holders and accessories are good to go for another season.

MOUNTING SUGGESTIONS

            Bert’s track comes standard with stainless hardware for thru-bolting the track to the gunwale. Before drilling holes, make sure you have easy access for tightening the necessary hardware. In some cases it may be necessary to install an observation plate for accessing the hardware. In hard to reach areas toggle bolts can be used to secure the track in place.
            I recommend putting a little grease on the stainless bolts before installing the supplied stainless washers and lock nuts. The grease insures that the nuts will thread onto the bolts without overheating the stainless bolts and causing cross threading issues.
            Also, rail mounting adapters are available that allow the track to be mounted on any round or square rail system. For rail mounting applications I suggest cutting off the bolts as short as possible after the nuts are installed using a bolt cutter. The final step is to take an angle grinder and smooth over the bolts so there are no sharp edges to catch on fishing line or clothing.

ACCESSORIES

            In addition to several styles of rod holders, a number of other accessories readily adapt to the Bert’s track. A few of the accessories I routinely use include the Tool Caddy, Drink Cup Holders, Downrigger Ball Cups and Swivel Downrigger Bases. For a complete list of all the Bert’s Custom Tackle products visit their webpage at www.teclausa.com/bert/.

SUMMING IT UP

            Rod holders are an important part of every fishing boat. Unfortunately, the rod holders rigged on most boats are inexpensive afterthoughts and it shows. With a little advance planning, any fishing boat can be rigged with rod holders that convert the boat into a fishing machine.