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Skinny Water Blue Gills By: Mark Romanack

Mon, 30 Apr 2012 17:33:55 -0800

Spring time is when most Americans have the greatest passion for the sport of fishing. There is just something special about getting on the water during a warm spring day that screams “good times” for all.

Next to catching fish, eating fish ranks right up there on the “enjoyment meter” and for my money, bluegills are the perfect table fish. My vote is cast for bluegills because they are abundant, widely available, their meat is sweet and catching them isn’t a complicated or expensive ordeal.

Because the bluegill and their close cousins the punkinseed sunfish are so widely distributed in America, there aren’t many anglers who can’t easily zero in on this popular species.

Bluegills are real suckers for insect larva like these wax worms.

SETTING THE PLATE

In April, May and into June when these fish are in shallow water feeding prior to the spawn and then spawning, bluegill are never easier to find or catch. Finding these fish boils down to understanding the types of habitats gills prefer and checking spots to see if any fish are at home.

Bluegills typically spawn in water from a few inches deep to eight or 10 feet of water. Younger immature fish tend to spawn in more shallow water than adult fish, but this is dictated by available habitat.

Gills like a firm bottom area usually made up primarily of sand and gravel. Often these fish choose areas that are silted over with a little organic material. The bowl shaped beds are easy to spot, especially when these fish spawn on darker colored silt bottoms. The nests or beds appear as light circles in an otherwise dark background making them easy to spot so long as the water is relatively clear.

Bluegills bite best when they are moving up shallow in preparation to spawn. Once the spawn starts, these fish can still be caught, but removing a bluegill from a bed means that the young living in that bed will quickly be eaten by a wide range of predators.

Like their cousins the largemouth and smallmouth bass, the male bluegill defends the nest from predators who would love to eat the eggs and newly hatched fry. This parental protection is a big part of why bluegills are such a successful species in many bodies of water.

Unfortunately because bluegill spawn in shallow water they are also susceptible to angling pressure. Anglers who target spawning fish should take care not to harvest too many from any given spot. A little discretion goes a long ways towards insuring that fishing stays good year after year.

SHALLOW WATER TACTICS

Live bait is pretty hard to beat for bluegill fishing. Most anglers use small leaf worms as bait, but I prefer to use wax worms which are cleaner to work with, easier to store and just as effective. Other good bluegill baits include mousies, spikes and butter worms all of which are insect larva widely sold at bait shops.

Because bluegill are notorious for their ability to steal bait from a fish hook, I like to use wax worms or other insect larva that makes it easy to put two, three or even four grubs on the hook at once. Having more bait on the hook seems to attract larger fish and it insures bait on the hook at the moment of truth.

Instead of using ordinary wire Aberdeen hooks for bluegill, I favor small panfish sized jigs like the Cobra Panfish produced by Bait Rigs Tackle. The Cobra comes in four sizes including the No. 20, 14, 12 and 10. For most of my spring bluegill fishing I favor the smaller 20 and 14 size jigs that sink very slowly when baited with wax worms. The off set style hook of the Cobra Panfish jig makes it possible to hook several grubs at once.

The grubs can be threaded onto the hook shank or hooked kabob style for a little more action. Either way, these small jigs tipped with wax worms or other insect larva are almost impossible for bluegill to refuse.

Because the Cobra Panfish jig is too small to cast, I rig them using a casting bubble with about three feet of line tied between the jig and the casting bubble. Good rigging options include using a four pound test main line and two pound test from the casting bubble to the jig.

Light action spinning tackle is the way to go for bluegill fishing. I favor an Okuma Celilo in a 7’-6” light action model. This rod is long enough to get great casting distance, yet short enough to be handy in even a small fishing boat.

The ideal reel is a 20 series Stinson which has adequate line capacity. This particular rod/reel combo retails for around $75.00 making it both an affordable and well balanced panfishing set up.

The off set hook on the Bait Rigs Cobra Panfish jig is designed to accept lots and lots of bait to insure bluegills don't strip the hook bare!

ANCHORING IS BEST

Some anglers after panfish drift shorelines casting to fish they spot in the shallow water. I prefer to cruise around slowly scouting for concentrations of fish, then anchoring the boat within casting distance. I use an Anchor Wizard on my boats to make it easy to raise and lower the anchor without ever touching a wet anchor line or mud covered anchor! The Anchor Wizard comes in various configurations suitable for small to large boats. This unique “hands off” anchoring system is even available for pontoon boats and kayaks. Visit the site www.anchorwizard.com for more details.

From an anchored position I can make accurate casts and work individual fish. The best approach is to cast well past the fish, then slowly reel up until the bait tipped jig is close to the fish. I like to twitch the rod tip so the jig jumps and then slowly sinks. Most of the bites occur when the jig is sinking.

Good polaroid fishing glasses are a must for this style of site fishing. Without polaroid glasses glare on the water will make it touch to spot fish or beds making it difficult to locate and catch fish.

It’s scary how much polaroid glasses cost these days. A lot of the popular and trendy brands are more than $200.00 a pair which is a lot for glasses that are ultimately going to end up scratched and discarded, dropped over the side of the boat or misplaced. Vicious Fishing www.vicious-fishing.com has some great glasses for less than $60.00, made by Ono’s a well respected manufacturer of sunglasses, that work well, are stylish and were designed with fishermen not race car drivers in mind.

SUMMING IT UP

The common bluegill ranks at the top of the “preferred fish” list for anyone who has spent some time catching and eating them. Some basic tackle and an understanding of the habitats bluegills favor in the spring adds up to yet another great fishing experience.

Jig Casting Tactics By: Mark Romanack

Sun, 15 Apr 2012 13:29:38 -0800

Recently the focus of the Fishing 411 Blog was aimed at vertical jigging. This go around we’re going to take a look at another popular jigging presentation I’ll simply call Jig Casting. Jig casting is an ideal presentation for targeting walleye and other fish in shallow water, compared to vertical jigging which is often used to target fish in deep water. The deeper the water gets, the less efficient casting jigs becomes. For the most part, this is a presentation that excels in water from a couple feet deep out to about 15 feet. It’s possible to cast jigs in deeper water, but often in deeper water it’s simply more efficient to present the boat over top of the fish.

Even panfish like this crappie are susceptible to jig casting methods. Craig Volwinkle of Traverse City, Michigan caught this nice pair of eaters.

Jake Romanack caught this nice smallmouth casting a Bait Rigs Slo-Poke Long Shank tipped with a soft plastic grub.

THE TOOLS

Like vertical jigging or almost any fishing presentation for that matter, the tools selected are going to make or break the deal. For jig casting I favor a slightly longer rod that will allow for more casting distance. A seven foot medium/light action rod is about perfect and my choice is an Okuma Dead Eye DE-S-701ML. To this rod I match a lightweight spinning reel and the Epixor 25b has the right combination of spool capacity and lightweight.

The line is an important choice and in this case it’s going to be 10 pound test Vicious Braid in bright yellow to aid in sensitivity and also seeing the line. We’ll talk more about why low stretch and high visibility lines are critical to jig casting later.

Attached to the 10 pound braid I’m using a 24 inch leader of eight pound test Vicious Pro Elite Fluorocarbon tied using a double uni-knot. This rigging option allows me a clear connection direct to the jig and the uni-knot is small enough it easily reels right up into the guides, making casting seamless.

At the business end I fish two different jig types. For clean bottom areas my go to jig for years has been the Odd Ball produced by Bait Rigs Tackle. This stand-up design positions the hook point upwards dramatically improving the hooking ratio in the process. Depending on water depth and wind I’m throwing a 1/16, 1/8 or 1/4 ounce jig most of the time.

The second jig design I use and recommend is the Slo-Poke Long Shank also produced by Bait Rigs. This semi stand-up jig has a 60 degree eye tie (line ties to the nose of the jig instead of on top of the jighead) that allows the jig to swim through weeds, wood and other debris better.

This jig comes in 1/8 and 1/4 ounce versions which will handle most weed or timber casting situations. The long shank of this jig design is ideal for tipping with a host of soft plastic grubs and minnow tails.

The Odd Ball Jig by Bait Rigs is the author's long time favorite for jig casting. This stand-up jig design is ideal for fishing clean bottom areas.

Chad Thompson of Pasha Lake Cabins near Beardmore Ontario offers his clients some amazing jig casting opportunities for walleye, northern pike and trout.

THE PRESENTATION

Casting jigs is not difficult, but a lot of anglers struggle to master this popular presentation. Where to cast depends on what kind of water is involved. In rivers, normally it’s best to cast quartering upstream while the boat is drifting or from an anchored position. This enables the river current to help sweep the jig downstream in a natural manner.

Make a long cast, keep the reel bail open and let the jig sink straight to bottom. This technique insures the jig will cover the most real estate on each cast.

Once the jig hits bottom, lower the rod tip to just below eye level, point the rod at the jig and reel up slack slowly until you can feel the weight of the jig loading the rod. At this point, raise the rod tip to about the 10 o’clock position and stop the rod abruptly.

This movement pops the jig up off bottom and the current in turn starts washing the jig downstream. If you watch the fishing line, you’ll notice the jig only moves a couple feet before it crashes back to bottom and the line goes slack on the surface. Drop the rod tip, reel up the slack line and raise the rod back to the 10 o’clock position again. Repeat this process over and over until the jig has been swept completely downstream of the boat or your shore casting position.

In still water, a similar casting presentation is employed with jigs. The biggest difference is because there is no current to sweep the jig downstream, lifting the jig causes it to pendulum towards the boat or shore position.

If the boat is drifting, casting downwind allows the jig to be presented before the boat gets too close to the fish and potentially spooks them. From a shore position, fan cast to different locations to cover all the available water.

JIG SIZE AND WATER DEPTH

Normally a 1/16 ounce jig will work nicely in water from 2-6 feet deep. A 1/8 ounce jig is a good choice in water from 6-10 feet of water and if it’s necessary to fish deeper than 10 feet a 1/4 ounce jig gets the job done.

If there is a steady wind, consider bumping up the jig size one notch to help control slack line as much as possible. In the wind, the fishing line forms a bow that in effect is putting slack in the presentation and making it more difficult to detect bites. Bumping up the jig size will help keep this line bow to a minimum.

JIG COLOR

Rarely is jig color a make or break deal when casting jigs. Natural colors are a good choice for fishing in clear to stained water and brighter colors a good option in stained to dirty water.

PLASTIC OR BAIT

Casting a jig with live bait poses some obvious problems. Keeping the bait on the hook is a challenge. Minnows are the worst bait for casting as they tend to tear off easily. Leeches are a better option for jig casting or consider trying half a night crawler threaded onto the jig shank.

Plastic minnow, grub and action tails are tough enough to stay on the hook and in most instances they provide all the attraction needed to trigger strikes. Because a jig swimming along near bottom looks much like the kinds of food fish tend to target, jigs tend to get slurped up readily.

The size of the soft plastic depends on the species of fish targeted. For crappie and other panfish, tails two inches long and shorter are going to be ideal. For walleye the three inch tail is near perfect and for bass three or four inch tails are normally the best option.

REFINEMENTS

Low stretch lines provide more sensitivity or the ability to feel what the jig is doing. I like Spectra braids as they load onto the fishing reel more like monofilament and are easy to cast with. Anything that touches that jig is going to be telegraphed up the fishing line, making it easier to detect strikes and hook fish.

High visibility lines make it much easier to spot line movement that telegraphs strikes that occur on slack line. The second the jig hits bottom the line goes slack. At that instant if a fish sucks in the jig, the fish is pulling against slack line and the angler isn’t going to feel the bite. If the line darts or hesitates, an angler who’s paying close attention can spot the movement and detect that strike before the fish has a chance to realize its mistake and spit out the jig.

In short, the object of jig casting is to swim that jig along the bottom while concentrating on the point where the line enters the water. If a fish bites while the jig is moving, it will be felt as a distinctive tap in the line. If the fish bites while the jig is motionless on the bottom, the line may move, but the angler isn’t likely to feel a thing.

Fish that pick up the jig from bottom on slack line are first detected when the angler goes to reel up the slack line to move the jig again. At this point the angler feels a sensation of weight. That’s as good as it gets.

The rule of thumb in jig casting is to set the hook on anything that doesn’t feel normal. With practice anyone can master the art of jig casting.

Verticle Jigging By Mark Romanack

Sat, 31 Mar 2012 16:51:42 -0800

Vertical jigging in rivers for species like walleye or smallmouth bass is one of those fishing presentations that looks simple. To the novice, vertical jigging appears to be little more than aimless drifting with the current, while at the same time jigging below the boat.

Actually, vertical jigging could be that simple if it wasn’t for something I’ll call reality. In this case reality comes in the form of wind. On windless days, it’s fairly easy to let the boat drift with the current and at the same time jig directly below the boat.

Unfortunately, the moment the wind picks up even a little, the boat is impacted and starts to drift either slower or faster than the current depending on which way the wind is coming from. If the wind is blowing against the direction of the current, the boat is going to drift slower than the current. If the wind is blowing the same direction as the current, the boat will start drifting faster than the current. Varying angles of the wind with or against the current produce produce varying impacts on the boat, but always the boat acts like a sail and is impacted by the wind.

The moment the boat starts drifting faster or slower than the current, keeping a jig directly below the boat goes out the window. If the boat is drifting faster than the current, the fishing line will start to angle sharply upstream. If the boat is drifting slower than the current, the line will angle sharply downstream.

The best way to compensate for this unavoidable situation is to use an electric motor and compensate so the boat drifting speed is either speed up or slowed down to match the current again. This process is best accomplished from the bow of a boat using a powerful electric motor. For full sized walleye and bass boats a 24 volt electric motor is the minimum required and in many cases larger boats will require a 36 volt electric motor.

Smaller and lighter aluminum boats can be controlled using a 12 volt electric motor. It’s also possible to control the boat using a transom mounted electric motor, but moving the square transom of the boat against the current is less efficient than moving the pointed bow of the boat.

Vertical jigging in rivers is best accomplished using a bow mounted electric motor.

SMALL BURSTS OF POWER

The best way to control the boat, keep the boat moving at the same speed as the current and the fishing line straight below the boat is to use short bursts of power from the electric motor. Set the power on the electric motor to about five or six, then get started by watching the fishing line to determine which way the line is starting to angle. With the nose of the boat pointed into the wind, hit the momentary switch on the electric motor for a few seconds to push the boat into the wind.

At this very moment watch the line to confirm the boat is moving in such a way as to remove the angle from the line and again reposition the boat directly over top of the jig. Some guys call this vertical jigging presentation “chasing the line” because in effect the boat is chasing after the line constantly as the boat, line and jig all drift downstream.

If the electric motor is engaged for too long, the boat will move too much and go past the vertical position, angling the line in the opposite direction. It’s important to use short bursts of power and to use those short bursts of power over and over again to maintain as vertical as possible.

WHY VERTICAL?

About now you’re probably wondering why do I need to keep the jig positioned directly below the boat in the first place? What harm is done if the line starts to angle a little?

The instant the line angles the jig loses contact with bottom. To again feel the bottom, the angler is forced to let out more line. At this point the jig is actually dragging downstream instead of swimming just off the bottom. Because the bottom of most rivers are littered with broken rocks, sunken wood and a host of other potential snags, dragging jigs in rivers often turns into a snag fest.

Vertical jigging with the jig positioned just a couple inches off bottom, eliminates about 90% of the snagging issues and at the same time allows the jig to drift downstream naturally in the same way baitfish would be moving in the current. Done correctly, vertical jigging is a very natural presentation and deadly on any river species that hugs the bottom.

One of the best ways to master vertical jigging is by practicing on abundant species like catfish. Jake the author's youngest son fine tuned his jigging skills by catching bunches and bunches of catfish.

RODS/REELS AND LINE MATTERS

Vertical jigging isn’t just about boat control. It’s also about using balanced gear designed for the purpose of this unique presentation. For bass and walleye applications a six foot to six foot six inch long, medium light action spinning rod is ideal. I favor the new Okuma Dead Eye rods as they are IM8 graphite, very sensitive and reasonable in price. To this rod I’d recommend matching up a 20 or 25 series spinning reel loaded with about 100-150 yards of 10# test Spectra braided fishing line. Spectra braided lines like Vicious Braid has body or shape similar to monofilament line and loads onto the reel like monofilament line. Fused lines including all Microdyneema products are flat and they load onto the reel spool poorly, causing the drag system on the reel to malfunction.

High visibility lines help the angler easily see the line when trying to keep a vertical presentation. Because high visibility lines are also visible to the fish, consider tying a 24 inch leader of fluorocarbon leader material to the braid using a double uni knot. This provides a clear and invisible connection from line to lure without sacrificing the low stretch and superb sensitivity of the Spectra braid.

LONG SHANK JIGS WORK BEST

Vertical jigging can be accomplished with almost any jig style that features a 90 degree eye tie that causes the jig to hang horizontal in the water. Long shank jigs are however the best choice for vertical jigging because the hook point is positioned a little further back in the presentation than with a short shank jig. This slight difference in jig designs may not seem like much, but a long shank jig with stick, hook and land far more fish than a short shank jig. The further the hook point ends up in the fish’s mouth, the better the chances that hook point will contact tissue inside the fish’s mouth and stick the fish.

It’s also a good idea to practice vertical jigging with “stand-up” style jigs. The popular Bait Rigs Odd Ball is a long shank, stand-up style jig that is perfect for all river vertical jigging applications. Not only does this jig hang horizontal in the water and increase the chances the hook point will bite good real estate inside the fish’s mouth, the stand up design keeps the hook pointed upright even when the jig is motionless on the bottom.

Round, bullet shaped and other jighead shapes allow the jig to tip over the second it touches the bottom. If a fish sucks up the jig while it’s resting on bottom it becomes a crap shoot as to how the hook point contacts the inside of the fish’s mouth. A stand up jig will insure the hook point contacts the top of the fish’s mouth every time, greatly improving the hook up ratio. This small detail is very important in vertical jigging because a large percentage of the bites come when the jig is resting on the bottom.

LIVE BAIT OR PLASTIC?

What an angler uses to dress the jig is more of personal choice than anything else. Both bass and walleye living in rivers will readily hit minnow, nightcrawlers or leeches. Live bait works well, but keeping the bait lively is always an issue.

The latest generation of soft plastics are so life-like it could be argued that these products are almost as good as live bait. When the bite is good, honestly it makes more sense to fish plastics as they are going to stay on the hook better and be ready for action when a fish bites.

A good rule of thumb is to use live bait like minnows when the water is very cold, say 36 to 45 degrees. Once the water temperature warms above 45 degrees, fish tend to become a little more active and a wealth of soft plastics will perform well.

STINGER HOOKS?

Stinger hooks work best with minnows and when jigging in very cold water. Lethargic fish often pick up the bait, but don’t inhale it deep into their mouth. The stinger hook helps land a few more of these tough to hook fish.

Stinger hooks don’t function well with nightcrawlers or leeches as the bait tends to ball up on the stinger hook. Stingers are sometimes used with soft plastics, but more often than not if plastics are working, stinger hooks are necessary.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Vertical jigging in rivers is a fishing presentation that compared to many others is more difficult to master. That stated, no other popular fishing presentation is better able to catch walleye, bass and other species than vertical jigging.

The only way to master this presentation is by practicing. Often the best way to learn the ins and outs of vertical jigging is to practice on rough fish species like sheepshead or other abundant river species including whitebass and catfish. No matter the species, the presentation is the same and just as deadly.

Less is More Board Fishing

Sun, 25 Mar 2012 16:55:30 -0800

Few anglers have spent more time fishing with planer boards than I have. Keep in mind that I played a major role in developing the wildly popular Off Shore Tackle Side-Planer. Admittedly I’m somewhat biased in that I personally feel the Side-Planer is the best multi-purpose in-line planer board on the market. The many rigging and release options available to anglers makes this board the most versatile on the market.

For as much as I feel the Side-Planer deserves top billing for most trolling applications, I’m finding more and more applications for a new and smaller planer board the OR-34 Mini-Board.

When the research and development process started for the OR34, I was skeptical how such a small board would perform compared to the OR12 Side-Planer. It didn’t take me long to discover that the OR34 is a serious trolling tool capable of doing things the OR12 simply can’t. That’s saying a lot considering that OR34 was originally designed for the unique niche of crappie trolling!

Off Shore Tackle pro staffer Tommy Skarlis demonstrates that the Mini-Board can be used to catch schooling panfish like this yellow bass.

THE BIG PICTURE

Trolling is a complicated presentation and no single board is going to work well for every application. Having the option of choosing planer boards that are ideally suited to the trolling situation has made me a better troller and more productive fisherman.

Before the OR34 Mini-Board was introduced, I carried in my boat two complete sets of Side-Planers. One set was rigged with Tattle Flags for walleye trolling applications and a second set was equipped for the release and slide rigging option popular with salmon and trout anglers.

Today I carry a third set of boards including the OR34 Mini-Board. I use the Mini-Board for light duty trolling applications that involve trolling with small to medium sized diving crankbaits, live bait rigs, stickbaits and or swimbaits.

My favorite way to rig these boards is with an OR10 light duty planer board release (yellow) on the tow arm and an OR16 Snap Weight Clip (red) mounted to a split ring at the back of the board. Rigged this way, I can insure that at the strike the line will trip from the yellow release on the tow arm and the red Snap Weight Clip will insure the board stays on the line while I’m fighting the fish.

Jake Romanack and Blake Hanko recently teamed up with Mini-Boards to catch some Lake Erie walleye.

The OR34 Mini-Board was designed for crappie fishing, but it shines brightly for a multitude of other trolling applications.

The instant the board releases and the line pulls tight against the struggling fish, the lightweight OR34 Mini-Board pops up out of the water and becomes suspended on the fishing line. Gradually as I gain line on the fish, the fish is pulled to the back of the boat and free of other lines. When the board comes close enough to the boat to be easily reached, I simply pinch it off the line before finishing the fight.

This simple rigging option allows me to stack two, three or even four lines per side of the boat without having to clear any lines while fighting a fish! So long as I’m not trolling in rough water or trying to pull deep diving crankbaits or other heavy hardware, the OR34 works amazingly well.

Because the OR34 releases on the strike, there is no need for after market strike indicators like the Tattle Flag Kits. The ultra light weight of the OR34 also makes fighting fish a pleasure. A third benefit is I can troll with whatever rods/reels I have on board at the time because it’s not necessary to use designated trolling rods when fishing with the OR34.

PLACES WHERE THE OR34 SHINES

In recent years I’ve used OR34 Mini Boards to catch walleye, northern pike, stream steelhead and even stripers. Ironically, a board that was designed for crappie trolling is finding favor in many other fishing arenas.

For walleye trolling I favor the OR34 in the spring when I’m often trolling in shallow water and or close to shore where waves are not an issue. One of my favorite presentations is trolling stickbaits over the tops of emerging weed beds. The OR34 works exceptionally well in this situation allowing me to set three or more lines per side, without having to worry about clearing lines should a fish become hooked on an outside board.

I also routinely use the OR34 to troll for walleye in rivers, using diving crankbaits fished along the edges of the main channel or up on top of flats.

The OR34 works great for trolling up larger species like northern pike. Every spring when the big fish move into shallow bays to spawn, I troll big stickbaits across the sprawling flats without issue. Again, because these trolling situations rarely encounter rough water, the OR34 gets the job done just as well as the larger OR12.

For river fishing, the OR34 can be fished from a boat or by an angler standing on shore or wading. The board helps the angler present lures into places that would be impossible to cast to, creating yet another fishing niche for the OR34.

I even used the OR34 recently to catch striped bass trolling with 20 inch long live gizzard shad! Amazingly the OR34 did a wonderful job of getting even these jumbo sized live baits out to the side of the boat.

DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THE OR34

Don’t let the small size of the OR34 fool you. This amazing little board brings a lot to the party. The Mini-Board clearly wasn’t designed for trolling in rough water, yet this unique planer board handles itself very well in a surprising number of fishing situations. Sometimes less can be more and the OR34 Mini-Board is proof positive.

Lead Core Line Trolling By: Mark Romanack

Tue, 06 Mar 2012 15:15:20 -0800

I love to troll with lead core line. Not only does lead core help me catch more fish, I’ve found some creative ways to implement this sinking line into just about any trolling pattern.

The keys to using lead core is understanding what this line can do and what it can’t do. Used appropriately, lead core is a deadly means of getting crankbaits deeper, fishing spoons or crawler harnesses that otherwise have no nature diving ability and it can also be used to troll attractor rigs, cut bait and a wealth of other trolling products.

The author's sister Shelly Clouthier caught this full figured king trolling lead core line with a Wolverine Tackle Magnum Streak spoon.

ABOUT LEAD CORE

Lead core line has been around for decades and has remained mostly unchanged during that time. The way lead core is fished however has evolved considerably. While the product itself is little more than a soft lead wire with a braided coating of nylon to provide the line strength, lead core as a fishing tool is very versatile.

Like other fishing line lead core is rated for break strength. The break strength is determined by the nylon coating, not the wire inside. For example, the wire in 27 and 36 pound test lead core line is identical. Only the thickness and strength of the nylon coating is different.

Because larger break strength lead core lines are also larger in diameter, they take up more room on the trolling reel. Here in the Great Lakes region there are only two popular sizes of lead core line. Most of the walleye enthusiasts are using 18# test and the salmon/trout guys tend to favor 27# test.

For my money the only lead core line to consider using is 27# test. This line has the best compromise of properties including strength and weight and can be used to catch both warm water and cold water species. When rigging lead core for walleye, I use a lighter leader material than when using it to catch trout and salmon. Other than that, the set up I favor is identical.

This exceptional coho was caught trolling lead core in combination with a Side-Planer board. Note the Bert's tree-style rod holders in the back ground. Trees are the perfect way to present multiple in-line board lines while trolling with lead core and other sinking lines.

SEGMENTED LEAD CORE

One of the best ways to rig lead core line is to first load a backing material onto the reel, then attach the appropriate amount of lead core line, based on the depth to be achieved and then finish the rig with a leader of fluorocarbon. Backing material can be either super braid or monofilament depending on the situation. Because super braid takes up far less space on the reel it’s popular with walleye fishermen who often fish with smaller reels that have less line capacity.

Fluorocarbon is the undisputed best choice for leader material however. For smaller species like walleye, 12-15 pound test is ideal. For larger fish like salmon or trout, 17-25 pound test works well.

Attaching lead core to leader material and backing is an issue. Some anglers use a surgeon’s knot to tie the backing onto the lead core. I favor a different system.

I simply remove about six inches of lead from the nylon coating. Then I slip the monofilament backing into the nylon coating and secure with a simple overhand knot that pinches the backing material inside the nylon coating. The same rigging option is used to add the leader material. The connection is strong and the knot small enough to easily pass through the guides of the rod and the level wind on the reel. The attached video at the end of this blog shows in more detail how to tie lead core to backing and lead core to leader material.

This option only works when using monofilament as backing. Super braids are too slippery to use this knot.

SUPER BRAID OPTIONS

Using super braid for backing makes sense in many fishing situations, but when fishing lead core in combination with in-line planer boards, super braid poses a problem. Because this ultra thin and super slippery line doesn’t hold well in traditional planer board releases and clips, some anglers use a short segment of monofilament tied between the lead core and backing as an attachment point for the board.

Captain Chip Cartwright of Wolverine Tackle uses lead core almost every time out salmon fishing. “I tie in a 24 inch length of 25# test monofilament between my lead core and the super braid backing,” explains Captain Cartwright. “This short length of monofilament is where I position my Off Shore Tackle Side-Planer board. Rigged in this manner the board stays on the line nicely with the standard line releases that come with the board.”

Another option for those who prefer to use super braid for backing is to rig their planer boards with the OR18 Snapper Release produced by Off Shore Tackle. This after market line clip is cam operated and features a set screw for tension adjustment. When the screw tension is set tight and the cam locked down the super braid is held firmly in the release jaws. This is the only line release I’ve seen that will consistently hold super braids without the line slipping or the release damaging the line.

The Snapper Release can also be used on monofilament backing, making it the only release that works on all line types.

RODS & REELS SUITABLE FOR LEAD CORE

Because lead core is bulky and takes up a lot of space on the reel, anglers are forced to use reels with a rather large line capacity. For walleye applications when anglers are likely to be using three colors (approximately 100 feet) of lead core or less, a size 20 line counter or level wind reel is adequate to hold enough backing, lead core and leader material.

For trout and salmon anglers who are typically fishing five to seven colors of lead core, it takes a 45 series line counter or level wind reel to hold adequate backing, lead core and leader.

For fishing eight to 10 colors of lead core requires a 55 series line counter or level wind style reel.

For fishing modest amounts of lead core, I favor using a line counter reel like the Okuma Convector or Clarion. The reason the line counter is handy, is because I often let out all the lead core and a substantial amount of backing. The line counter reel allows me to monitor the amount of backing being let out so I can duplicate that number should the rig catch a fish.

In this situation letting out additional backing is helping to achieve greater depths with a modest amount of lead core line. When using larger amounts of lead core, I typically use a fast retrieve ratio level wind reel like the Okuma Clarion.

These reels come in ordinary 4.2:1 retrieve ratios and also blistering fast 6.2:1 retrieve ratios. No other reel on the market combines the size, drag smoothness and fast retrieve ratios of these Clarions. The ability to reel in super long lengths of lead core quickly and efficiently makes the Clarion High Speeds the only logical choice for fishing 5 or more colors of lead core line.

When using longer lengths of lead core, it’s typically not practical to let out lots of backing material so a line counter style reel isn’t necessary to monitor lead lengths.

I’ve turned a lot of Captains onto the Clarion High Speed reels. Everyone who fishes this reel with lead core or other sinking line types immediately falls in love with them. With a suggested retail price of only $129.99 it’s easy to see why everyone is talking about the Clarion High Speed Level Wind reels.

Okuma also produces the perfect lead core and or copper line trolling rod. Found in the Classic Pro GLT series the Copper Rod is designed especially for fishing sinking lines. Made from fiberglass this rod is super tough, affordable and adapts well to fishing with planer boards.

Trophy walleye like this one caught by Bruce DeShano of Off Shore Tackle are often caught trolling shallow diving crankbaits using lead core to seek additional depth.

THE BOARD ADVANTAGE

Lead core is often fished as a flat line straight out behind the boat. However, in open water trolling situations lead core is more often fished in combination with an in-line board like the popular Off Shore Tackle Side-Planer.

Using an in-line board anglers can stack as many as three or four lines per side of the boat. The best way to stagger these lines is by running the most shallow diving lines the furthest to the side and the deeper lines closer to the boat.

For example, when salmon fishing I tend to run a five color rig as the outside line. This line is running down about 20 feet. The second or middle line is typically a 10 color rig which is fishing down about 40 feet. The third board line which is closest to the boat is a 10 color lead core with a two ounce Snap Weight added to make it run about 50 feet down.

Staggered in this manner, a fish hooked on the outside boards can be reeled in right over top of the other deeper lines without fear of tangling.

A common walleye set up consists of a two color rig on the outside and a three color rig on the inside board. Another way to stagger depths is to use a diving crankbait in combination with lead core line to achieve depths deeper than the crankbait would run without using the lead core line. Honestly, the opportunities for using lead core are almost endless.

MORE LEAD CORE TRICKS

Lead core is a sinking line that achieves depth based both on how much line is played out and how fast the boat is moving. By adjusting trolling speed the angler can dramatically influence fishing depth without having to change lead lengths.

Rather than having a bunch of reels loaded with various lengths of lead core line, I use speed to help me fish the water column throughly. Adjusting the trolling speed just one or two 1/10th of a mile per hour will dramatically influence trolling depth. Speed is also a triggering element and varying boat speed often pays big dividends in trolling.

Pinch on weight systems like the popular Off Shore Tackle Pro Weight System are another easy way to add weight to trolling lines and achieve extra depth.

Lead core can be used with hard baits, live bait, cut bait rigs and just about any lure that would typically be trolled. Fast or slow, deep or shallow, lead core helps anglers stagger their baits in the water column.

Most commonly used to target walleye or trout and salmon, lead core can be used on a wealth of other species including stripers, northern pike, musky and even saltwater species. In short, lead core works and that’s precisely why this line type has survived for so many decades.

Spoon Trolling By Mark Romanack

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 13:18:17 -0800

When I first broke into the fishing industry a trolling spoon was a tool used exclusively to catch salmon, lake trout and steelhead. No one was using spoons to target walleye and no one was even dreaming of creative ways to deploy trolling spoons. Today, the trolling spoon is dominating the walleye catch in places like Lake Erie and that trend has expanded to Saginaw Bay, Little Bay de Noc, Green Bay and many other places.

What makes the trolling spoon so deadly on open water walleye? The answer is as simple as understanding how important it is to cover water while trolling both from a depth perspective and also by spreading out lures and fishing through a lot of water. No other popular walleye trolling method with the possible exception of crankbaits, can come close to the efficiency of spoon trolling when it comes to saturating the water column with lures.

The beauty of trolling spoons is they can be fished on in-line boards, you can use a planer mast system or if you prefer a series of diving planers. On my boat, I tend to mix the spoon program using planer boards to cover water outside of the boat and diving planers to cover the corners. The combination helps me fish the maximum number of lines and also fish a wide variety of depths.

Small spoons like the Wolverine Tackle Jr. Streak are deadly for trolling up summer walleye.

SPOON TALK

Before any discussion about walleye trolling spoons can sink in, it’s critical to explain that a walleye spoon is a different animal than the typical trolling spoons used for salmon and trout. For one thing a walleye spoon is smaller so as to do a better job of imitating the smaller forage like emerald shiners walleye often feed upon.

Secondly, smaller walleye spoons are less speed forgiving than larger spoons. This occurs because the smaller surface area of a walleye spoon has less action at slow speeds than a larger spoon might have.

The typical trolling spoon has good action from 1.5 mph to about 4 mph. For walleye spoons, that sweet range is more like 2.0 mph to 3.5 mph. Because the speed range of smaller spoons is more narrow, it’s important to monitor trolling speeds very closely. Even a subtle change of 1/10th of a mile per hour can mean the difference in triggering strikes or going fishless.

Some spoons like the Wolverine Tackle Jr. Streak have good action down to about 1.5 mph, but I rarely troll them that slow. My strategy for spoon trolling is to speed up and cover lots of water. I saturate the water column both vertically and horizontally in an attempt to contact as many fish as possible. This form of open water trolling is anything but subtle. I go right after the fish to determine the depth they are biting at, then I saturate that depth zone with similar lures and colors.

GETTING DOWN

Spoons have no dive profile of their own and need to be fished in combination with a variety of devices designed to deploy them to depth. Both floating and sinking devices are suitable for this chore. In the floating category there are two popular divers out there suitable for spoon trolling including the Luhr Jensen Jet Diver and the Walker TripZ Diver. Both are similar and in fact almost identical. These floating divers come in different sizes designed to achieve various depths. The size 10 and 20 will dive deep enough to reach walleye in most situations. In deeper water typically found in the Central and Eastern Basins of Lake Erie the 30 and 40 sizes are popular.

The rule with floating divers is to use just enough to get the job done. Otherwise you’re going to end up fighting the diver as much as the fish! Using a 40 when the fish are just 15 feet down is like anchoring a canoe with the anchor intended for the Queen Mary. Sure it will work, but why would anyone do that?

For anglers who don’t want to invest in all the floating diver sizes, my recommendation would be to purchase 20 and 40 sizes and use the 20 versions for fish as deep as 20 feet and the 40 version for fish deeper than this.

The other common tool used for deploying spoons are sinking mini-divers. The Big Jon Mini-Disk comes in two sizes suitable for spoon trolling. Luhr Jensen also produces the Mini-Dipsy that is about the right size for trolling walleye spoons. All of these divers are sinking devices, so it’s important to keep the boat moving all the time. It’s okay to slow down when fighting a big fish, but stalling the boat in the water will allow these divers to crash to the bottom.

A third category of diver that works well for trolling walleye spoons are the Off Shore Tackle Tadpoles. These sinking divers come in two sizes and are designed to fish depths ranging from 10-30 feet below the surface.

All three of these diving planer designs can be used to achieve the appropriate depths. Rigging them requires adding a five to six foot leader off the back of the diver and then a small ball bearing swivel and finally the spoon.

I recommend using 15# test Vicious Fluorocarbon as a leader material. The ball bearing swivel is also mandatory. Without the swivel, the leader will quickly tangle. Using a lesser quality swivel may prevent line twist, but it won’t allow the spoon to have maximum action. Spend the money and get good ball bearing swivels suitable for the job.

Speed is critical to spoon trolling success. Minor changes in speed can and do make a difference in action and how fish react to these baits.

BOARDS ARE BEST

A spoon trolling program can be effective using either in-line boards like the popular Side-Planer by Off Shore Tackle or a mast system depending on how many lines are going to be deployed. For small boat fishermen who are most likely going to fish six lines or less, in-line boards are the hot ticket.

Anglers with bigger boats are going to be served best with a mast system that will allow up to five lines per side to be fished. Both of these popular planer board fishing methods accomplish the same goals. Which system is the best choice really boils down to boat size, the amount of lines to be fished and personal preference.

TROLLING SPEED

As we discussed earlier, spoons (especially small ones) are not as speed forgiving as other lures. For the most part speeds from 2.0 mph to about 3.0 mph are going to ideal. At times when the fish are really snapping a little faster will produce good results.

While a one mph spread may seem like a narrow window for speed, keep in mind that must 1/10th of a mph can make a difference. I monitor trolling speed more closely with spoons than when trolling any other lure for walleye. Subtle differences in speed can and do make a big difference.

BONUS LINES ON THE CORNERS

In addition to the planer board lines, I typically fish two diving planers off the respective corners of the boat set on the No. 2 position so they both dive and also plane out to the side a short distance.

It’s amazing how many fish these bonus lines catch. At times when there are a lot of floating weeds on the surface, these corner divers become critical to success because a weed can catch the line and slide down to the diver without fouling the lure.

RODS AND REELS

For both floating and diving planers I’m a fan of 12-15 pound test monofilament line. I’m fishing Vicious Ultimate which is a co-polymer and a little thinner in diameter than ordinary monofilament lines. A 20 series Okuma Convector or Clarion line counter reel is the perfect size.

For in-line boards I’m fishing the Classic Pro telescopic trolling rods also from Okuma. This rod is a medium action and 8’-6” in length. For fishing a mast system I favor a somewhat lighter action trolling rod like the Blue Diamond 7’-6” ML. The softer tip on these rods makes it easier to detect strikes.

The corner diver rods are 9’ medium action Classic Pro Dipsy Diver rods. This rod is ideal for fishing larger diving planers.

TARGET DEPTHS

All of the diving planers described in this blog have been tested by Precision Trolling and the Dive Curves for these devices are included in the Precision Trolling Pro Edition and Precision Trolling Big Water Edition. This data will soon be available as an iPhone application allowing anglers to purchase either individual Dive Curves or all the data currently produced by Precision Trolling.

Knowing how deep the various divers will fish at different lead lengths is invaluable and allows trollers to cover depth ranges with confidence and precision.

SUMMING IT UP

Spoon trolling is something that all the Great Lakes charter captains have mastered, but the recreational angler has yet to embrace this fishing method. Spoons are deadly walleye trolling lures when they are fished at the right speeds and in cooperation with trolling accessories like diving planers and planer boards. Collectively this trolling set up is like a fish harvesting system when all the pieces of the puzzle are put together properly.

Captain Ron Levitan of the Passin' Time is one of the region's most successful spoon trollers. He worked with Wolverine Tackle to develop the Jr. Streak which he uses daily on Lake Erie to catch fish like this!

Go North Young Man! By: Mark Romanack

Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:50:59 -0800

For more than 30 years I’ve been traveling north to Ontario every year to target walleye, northern pike, brook trout, lake trout and smallmouth bass. I keep going back for one simple reason -- the fishing is incredible.

Compared to my home state of Michigan, Ontario has more lakes, better fishing, a wider variety of species to choose from and when I get there chances are I’m going to have the whole lake to myself.

There is something special about being up north and fishing with the people you care most about. The atmosphere and fellowship I enjoy on an Ontario fishing trip can’t be duplicated back home and here’s why.

On larger lakes like Nipigon anglers can book houseboats that double as transportation and a place to stay while fishing.

FISHERY MANAGEMENT

When I was a kid anglers flocked to Ontario because they could fill the boat and their coolers with fish. Today, that is only half true. While the quality of fishing in Ontario has gotten nothing but better over the years, fishery managers have recognized the need to preserve and massage this precious resource. Bag or creel limits on most all species found in Ontario are much more conservative today than they were one or two decades ago.

That’s actually a good thing because fish harvest is critical to managing a species for maximum benefit. It’s true that fishermen want to keep fish for the table, but it’s also true that when too many fish are harvested, fishing success suffers dramatically.

Ontario was one of the first regions to recognize the benefits of using slot limits and selective harvest techniques to balance the need for taking a few fish for table fare while, leaving important breeding stock in the lake to perpetuate the species.

Across Ontario on key species like walleye, a slot limit is in effect that allows anglers to keep only one fish over a certain length. In the case of walleye, only one over 18 inches may be kept in the bag per day. By releasing the majority of adult fish, spawning success is dramatically improved and the overall fishing success skyrockets.

Reduced daily bag limits is another way that fishery biologists control the harvest and preserve fishing opportunities for future generations. By reducing the daily creel limit from six to four fish, anglers are still allowed to harvest ample fish for consumption, without wasting a resource that has very finite limits.

Doing away with possession limits is yet another way that in Ontario fish resources are carefully controlled to provide the maximum benefit to the angler. Most states allow a daily and possession limit. For example if the possession limit is 10 walleye, you can have five fish in the freezer back at camp and still harvest five additional walleye.

In Ontario there are no possession limits, only daily limits. That means if you fished on Monday and kept a legal limit of four walleye, you can’t keep any additional walleye until the four already kept are consumed.

Some anglers argue that without possession limits it’s tougher to accumulate fish to take home. I argue that measuring a trip by how many fish you take home is a mistake. I measure my fishing trips by the fish I catch and release, not the ones that go home in the cooler.

Walleye are the crown jewel of the north and Ontario has more world class fisheries than an angler can fish in a lifetime.

THE CONSERVATION LICENSE

The advent of the Conservation License has been another important tool that fishery managers use to carefully regulate fish harvest. The Conservation License costs less than the regular fishing license and in turn allows anglers to harvest half the number of fish.

In the case of walleye, harvesting two fish per licensed angler is more than adequate if your goal is a hearty shore lunch. Because the Conservation License limits harvest of fish, it inherently protects the resource and still allows anglers to harvest a reasonable amount of fish for the table.

COLLECTIVE BENEFITS

The collective benefits of slot limits, reduced creel limits and Conservation Fishing Licenses has converted Ontario from a place that historically had good fishing to a region that delivers world class fishing opportunities. Again using my home state of Michigan as an example, what inland lake can you visit in Michigan and routinely catch 20, 30 or more adult walleye per day of fishing? The answer is none. Across Ontario there are literally hundreds of lakes you can drive to, fly to or use a train to access that routinely produce this caliber of fishing.

A true fish of the north, brook trout don't get this big in waters that are fished heavily.

IT’S ABOUT CATCHING NOT KEEPING

My father’s generation were enthusiastic anglers, but they were also born to parents who survived the great depression, commodity shortages of World War II and other hard times. In those days keeping the “limit” was how a fishing trip was measured.

These days the measurement of a fishing trip should be judged not in the number of fish kept, but rather in the number of fish caught and released. Thankfully our neighbors to the north have figured this out and created fishing opportunities that are second to none.

Besides the popular species like walleye, northern pike and brook trout, Ontario is home to some of the best smallmouth, largemouth, crappie, perch, lake trout, whitefish and muskie fishing in the world.

I keep traveling north to Ontario every year because in the end, I’m more interested in the adventure of fishing, than what’s on the fillet table. In my mind, the thrill of catching fish is only surpassed by the joy of releasing them. Yes I do keep some fish for the table and I encourage others to do the same. Eating fish is an important part of the experience, but embracing the concepts of catch and release is how we’re going to insure the fisheries we enjoy today survive for future generations.

IF YOU GO:

www.northwest-ontario.com

www.gofishinontario.com

www.algomaregion.com

www.ontariossunsetcountry.ca

UNDERSTANDING FISHING LINE TYPES

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 13:28:57 -0800

The topic of fishing line used to be a short story. Today, fishing line is anything but simple and understanding the different kinds of lines available has become a rather complex subject.

Because the average angler hasn’t taken time to fully digest the latest technology to hit the fishing line market, they are less than prepared to make critical decisions that can and will influence success on the water. A little time on the internet can pay big dividends when it comes to understanding fishing lines and how to best use them.

LINE TYPES

Fishing lines come in an ever growing number of categories including nylon monofilament, co-polymer lines, spectra braided lines, microdyneema fiber lines, Uni-Filament lines, lead core lines and PVDF or fluorocarbon fishing lines. All of these lines have advantages and disadvantages. Like everything else in fishing, compromise is a part of the puzzle forcing anglers to make intelligent decisions on what line types work best for specific presentations.

Low stretch braids are perfect for jig fishing applications. These lines are so sensitive that even young or inexperienced anglers can fish like pros.

MONOFILAMENT

Ordinary nylon monofilament has been around for decades and amazingly this basic fishing line product continues to play a huge roll in the sportfishing industry. Largely what makes monofilament so popular is the combination of properties and modest cost. Nylon monofilament has relatively thin diameter, low memory which makes it easy to handle on spinning, spin-cast and baitcasting reels, amazing abrasion resistance and a controlled amount of stretch that makes this type of fishing line amazingly difficult to break.

All these features add up to a line that is still a winner for certain presentations like open water trolling, float fishing, river fishing and for targeting smaller species like panfish that don’t put deliver a lot of abuse to fishing line.

CO-POLYMER LINES

Co-polymer fishing lines are a close second to nylon monofilament. Sort of like monofilament on steroids, co-polymers are thinner in diameter without giving up important characteristics like tensile strength. Co-polymers have less memory and are very user friendly fishing lines suitable for all types of reels.

The disadvantages of co-polymer lines is they tend to be a little less abrasion resistant and the cost is slightly higher than monofilament lines. Just about any application that monofilament line works well for, co-polymers can be used effectively.

Like monofilament that comes in every size and color under the sun, the same is true of co-polymer lines. This line type has a slight advantage over monofilament for use on spinning reels because of the ultra low memory and a slight disadvantage over monofilament because of the somewhat reduced abrasion resistance.

Trout are especially line shy and good candidates for using fluorocarbon lines to reduce the chances these fish will be spooked by the fishing line. Pat Clark of Bert's Custom Tackle caught this amazing brook trout at Lodge 88 near White River Ontario. Awesome catch Pat!

FLUOROCARBON

Fluorocarbon lines look like nylon monofilament, but they are much different. Fluorocarbon line is denser and sinks, whereas monofilament and co-polymer lines float. Because fluorocarbon line sinks, it becomes the obvious choice for a number of contact style presentations like rigging, jigging, drop shotting and fishing soft plastics in combination with Texas rigged weights.

Fluorocarbon line is also completely invisible in water making it not only a good choice for main line, but also as a leader material. Like monofilaments, fluorocarbon comes in different grades designed to make the line stiffer and have greater abrasion resistance as a leader material or softer and have less memory for use as a main line. It’s important to read the fine print because a fluorocarbon that’s designed as a leader material will pop off a spinning reel like a coil spring! In the same token, fluorocarbon designed as main line will have far less abrasion resistance than the typical leader material.

Besides the presentations outlined above, fluorocarbon leader material is ideal for rig fishing leader, tying spinner rigs, used as diving planer leaders or shock leaders for pike and muskie fishing applications.

SPECTRA BRAIDS

Spectra is one of the most common “super fibers” used to create braided, low stretch lines. Thin in diameter and exceptionally useful in the tensile strength department, spectra braids are widely used on both spinning and baitcasting reels.

Because these lines have very little stretch and exceptionally thin diameter, they are ideal for jig fishing, deep water rigging applications, flipping and pitching into heavy cover, as diving planer lines and for trolling applications that require achieving maximum diving depth.

The biggest disadvantage of spectra braids is they require the use of special knots. Ordinary clinch style knots will often slip when tied using spectra braids because the fibers themselves are so slippery. The best overall knot for using spectra braids is the easy to tie and very strong polamar knot.

The author recommends monofilament or co-polymer lines for most trolling applications. These lines have the right combination of properties including thin diameter, controlled stretch and low cost making them the ideal choice for loading up all your trolling reels.

MICRODYNEEMA BRAIDS

Microdyneema is an extra thin fiber used to create a different generation of “super braid” lines. Because the fiber is stronger for a given diameter than spectra fibers, Microdyneema lines can be made thinner without sacrificing tensile strength.

The chief disadvantage of Microdyneema lines is a reduction in abrasion resistance compared to spectra lines and low knot strength. Useful in jigging applications that do not call for super strong lines, Microdyneema lines enjoy a niche in the fishing line market.

LEAD CORE

A sinking style line designed for trolling has been around since World War II when miracle fibers like Dacron and nylon first became available. Lead core line is made up of a thin wire made of soft lead covered with a coating of nylon braid that gives the line strength.

Like other fishing lines, lead core comes in different break strength or working loads. The most common sizes are 18 and 27 with a few anglers using 35 and 45 pound test lead core line.

Primarily used for deep water trolling applications, lead core is rather thick in diameter for the break strength and is only suited to being used on larger baitcasting or level-wind reels.

COMMON SENSE CHOICES

As a member of the Vicious Fishing Pro Staff, I’ve been using Vicious lines for the past five years. Like all manufacturers of fishing line Vicious produces a wide variety of line types including monofilament, co-polymer, spectra braid and two versions of fluorocarbon.

To keep my fishing as effective, yet simple as possible I’ve adopted the following user guidelines.

For general purpose trolling with planer boards or downriggers I prefer to use a co-polymer line like Vicious Ultimate. Because this line is very thin in diameter, I tend to select a break strength one size larger than I would ordinarily choose. For example, when walleye trolling I would typically use 10# test monofilament, but select 12# test Ultimate for this task. Doing so gives me more break strength without giving up the diving depth of my lures.

For the majority of jigging and rigging applications I prefer Vicious Braid which is a spectra product. For walleye fishing I opt for 10# test with a two pound test diameter. For bass fishing 15# test with a four pound diameter is ideal. This same line in 20# test is a good choice for deep water jigging for things like lake trout. I also use this line in larger sizes for casting to pike and muskie. The 50# test is ideal for pike fishing and the 65# or 80# is perfect for muskie fishing applications.

The new Pro Elite Fluorocarbon line is the ideal main line fluorocarbon for bass, panfish, steelhead and walleye fishing applications. Soft enough to fish on a spinning reel without memory issues, Pro Elite is the ultimate fluorocarbon for casting applications with spinning and baitcasting gear.

Vicious also makes fluorocarbon line designed to be used as leader material. This super tough and invisible line is the perfect choice for typing spinner rigs, slip sinker rigging, carolina rigging, diving planer leaders, downrigger trolling leaders, lead core leaders or any leader application. I even use this line to tie leaders for toothy critters like northern pike and muskie, creating super tough, flexible and invisible leaders that allow my lures to enjoy maximum action.

Toothy critters like this trophy pike caught by the author's brother Mike are best targeted with fluorocarbon leader material. For pike the author uses 50# fluorocarbon as leader material and for muskie 80# test fluorocarbon to prevent "bite offs" while insuring great lure action.

SUMMING IT UP

Fishing lines have become one of the more complex subjects in fishing. With so many different line types available and so many new products on the market, it’s a challenge to find products that work well.

No single line type can work for all fishing applications. Understanding a few of the line types available and how to get the most from these fishing products is the fast track to success. Fishing line may not be a short story anymore, but it’s a story with a happy ending for those who embrace the technology and get the most from it.

New Boat Time

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 17:41:11 -0800

My first fishing boat was a 14 footer aluminum model with a 25 HP tiller operated outboard. When I bought this boat I thought I was making a lifetime investment.

            It didn’t take long to realize that what I had invested in was an education, not a boat that would serve me well my whole life long. I soon realized that a 14 foot boat isn’t ideal for fishing larger waters.

            It wasn’t long until I sold the 14 footer and graduated to a 17 foot SC model with a 90 HP outboard. Contentment was short lived however. The very next year I jumped into the ranks of fishing V6 outboards and purchased my first boat with a 135 HP outboard! At the time that engine seemed huge. Today that engine is a puppy compared to the 225 or 250 HP Evinrude E-Tec outboards I’m currently running.

            Since I purchased my first boat in 1985, I’ve owned more than 25 other fishing boats and every one I have loved and hated. No matter what anyone says about fishing boats, no single boat can do everything a serious angler is likely to encounter. Begrudgingly I’ve come to the conclusion that owning a fishing boat is a situation laden with compromise. The best we can do as boat owners is find a compromise that best fits our fishing style and budget.

            If you’re at all interested in a new fishing boat, the next couple months are a critical time to make your decision. These days boat dealers are likely to have less inventory on the floor than ever before. What that means is if you are forced to order a boat, it’s going to take six to eight weeks minimum to have that boat built, shipped, rigged and made water ready.

            Assuming you want to be fishing come early spring, time is wasting if you’re really serious about making a boat purchase in 2012.

SIZE MATTERS

            With a fishing boat, the overall size is the most important factor to consider. Budget restraints are the primary reason fishermen settle on a smaller model and then soon become disillusioned with their investment. I’ve personally lived this situation a number of times and can say with confidence that it’s better to spend a little more and get a bigger boat, than to wish you had one or two years down the road.

            Buying a boat that’s a little too small will cost you down the road when it’s time to trade that boat in and move up to a larger model. The investment made in sonar, electric motors, batteries, rod holders and a dozen other after market items is totally lost when you trade in one boat for another.

            The smart move is to purchase a boat that meets your needs today and down the road, even if that boat is a little more than you want to spend. Trust me, no boat buyer ever looked back and said.... “I wish I would have bought a smaller boat.”

            I recommend 16-17 foot models for anglers who are primarily interested in fishing inland lakes and rivers. The angler who has interest in fishing the near shore waters of the Great Lakes is going to be better equipped with a boat that’s at least 18-19 feet in length. Serious fishing in larger lakes, reservoirs and the Great Lakes calls for a boat in the 20-22 foot length.

The author is at work in his office. Not everyone can afford a fishing boat like this, but everyone in the boat buying market can benefit from the buying tips Mark has shared in this Fishing 411 Blog.

HORSEPOWER CONCERNS

            Next to selecting a boat that’s on the small side for what they intend to use it for, purchasing an outboard that’s too small for the job is the most common mistake I see anglers making. Boat dealers are largely to blame for this problem as they put the minimum size outboard on boat packages to keep the price down and sticker shock to a minimum.

            While most dealers will try to encourage the buyer to purchase a larger outboard, once that price has set into a buyers mind, it’s tough to change their mind.

            A 16-17 foot boat with a 40 HP outboard is barely capable of getting that boat up on plane when loaded with anglers and gear. The same boats would perform far better if equipped with a 50 or 60 HP outboard.

            Boats in the 18 foot class require an outboard in the 90-115 HP range to see good performance. Larger boats like 19 footers and above really need the power of a V6 in the 150-200 HP range to enjoy maximum performance.

            Going too big with an outboard is almost as common as going too small. Tournament anglers make this mistake thinking that a few miles per hour of additional speed will translate to more fishing time and bigger bags of fish at the weight-in.

            The speed difference between a 225 and 250 is minimal, but the gas consumption isn’t. What running the maximum horse power on a fishing boat will usually do is kill your fishing budget with unnecessary stops at the gas station.

            If a boat is rated to handle a 300 HP outboard, chances are a 225 is going to make that boat perform nicely. The wisdom here is not to under power a boat or over power a boat, but to select an outboard that provides the right combination of power, performance and value.

ACCESSORIES

            The margin of profit on a boat, motor and trailer package is a lot smaller than the average person realizes. Dealers don’t make a lot of money on the sale of a boat and motor, so they try to pad the profit by loading the boat up with after market gear that has a much higher profit margin.

            Certainly it’s going to be necessary to add some key accessories to a fishing boat including an electric motor, batteries, sonar, rod holders, etc. The question becomes do you order these items from the dealer or purchase them outright and mount them yourself?

            The answer to that question depends on how handy you are and also how much time you’re willing to dedicate to a boat rigging project. I personally take great pride and rigging my own boats, but I’ve also had 25 years of experience doing so.

            The angler who isn’t comfortable wiring electronics or drilling holes in a boat to mount rod holders is probably a candidate for letting the dealer handle these chores. Certainly the cost to the consumer is going to be greater, but there is some peace of mind in knowing the job is done right and done in a timely fashion.

            If you’re the handy type, I highly recommend doing a significant amount of the rigging chores yourself. Running electrical leads for things like sonar units isn’t difficult, it’s just time consuming. The sweat equity gained can save the boat buyer thousands of dollars in labor charges. That’s money that could be invested in better accessories, a bigger boat or maybe even a bigger outboard! Think about it.

The boat in this picture is rigged with Bert's Custom Tackle tracks that accept a wealth of accessories including rod holders, tool holders, downrigger brackets and more.

MORE ON ACCESSORIES

            Just like making the mistake of buying a boat that’s too small or one that has an inadequate outboard, pinching pennies on the accessories leads anglers to regret those decisions. A few years ago I discovered a product line that allows me to easily add accessories as I can afford them.

            The Bert’s Custom Tackle “patented” Track System is pure genius when it comes to boat rigging accessories. Once the track is purchased and mounted, a host of important accessories slide in and out of the track as the angler can afford them or dictates the need.

            The Bert’s system readily accepts a number of rod holder designs available at different price points from entry level to pro angler quality. The same track system readily accepts a fixed and or swivel base downrigger bracket making it easy to mount downriggers and remove them just as quickly. There are also other key accessories like tool holders, net holders, drink cup holders, downrigger ball cups, sonar brackets and on and on.

            The Bert’s system is the ultimate in modular boat rigging. Even better, if you decide down the road to sell your boat, simply strip off all the accessories and on the new boat, mount track and you’re ready to go again in minutes. No other boat rigging system is as versatile or saves the customer more money in the long run than the Bert’s Custom Tackle Track System. Period.

BATTERIES

            Batteries are one of those hidden costs that no one ever thinks about until it’s time to buy them. In a fishing boat equipped with a 24 volt electric trolling motor, the owner is going to need at least three expensive batteries or better yet four.

            Buying cheap batteries saves money today and will come back to haunt you two or three years down the line when they need to all be replaced. Dealers know the difference between good batteries and bargain brands, but unless you request good batteries, chances are you’re going to get a bargain model.

            When it comes to deep cycle batteries, bite the bullet and get the biggest and baddest models you can afford. The same holds true for cranking batteries. I typically rig two 600 cold cranking amp batteries in my fishing boats so I have double the amp hours for running stuff like sonar, live-well pumps, bilge pumps and recirculation systems.

            The two batteries are wired in parallel which doubles the amp hours without changing the voltage. This simple rigging step has saved my bacon countless times over the years when I had battery power to spare instead of a dead battery.

SUMMING IT UP

            The old saying that a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into is partly true. This is true because so often boat buyers make bad decisions at the time of purchase and then end up paying for that bad decision down the road.

            It’s better to invest in a boat that meets and exceeds your needs than one that barely meets them. A little extra money spend up front will save you tons of money down the road.

One or Two Piece Rods? By: Mark Romanack

Sun, 29 Jan 2012 10:57:44 -0800

When I purchased my first fishing rod 40 plus years ago, it was a two piece spinning model. Back in those days almost every fishing rod on the market was designed with a two piece metal ferrel that joined the rod sections together. Depending on the length, some rods in those days had two or three sets of ferrels! Honestly these rods were clumsy, heavy, lifeless and not exactly a winner in the sensitivity department.

Technology in rod development has come a very long ways since those early days of the modern era in fishing. The materials rods are made of, the manufacturing processes and yes the ferrel designs have changed so much, it’s safe to say if you haven’t owned a two piece rod in recent years, you might be surprised how fishable multiple piece rods have become.

Typically rods longer than seven feet need to be two piece or telescopic in design. The author caught this wonderful steelhead using a two piece 8'-6" Okuma Celilo baitcasting model.

ADVANTAGES OF MULTIPLE PIECE RODS

The ability to break a fishing rod down in two or more pieces for transport is huge in these days when an angler may be fishing close to home on Monday and hundreds of miles away come Saturday. The number one reason fishing rods break ties directly into the dangers of transporting them! From boat lockers to the trunk on your car, more fishing rods meet their demise at the hands of a slamming door than all the other excuses combined!

Because multiple piece rods can be quickly broken down for transport, they are about twice as likely to survive fishing trip to fishing trip! That’s huge, because no one wants to show up at their favorite fishing hole only to discover their favorite rod is in pieces.

Multiple piece fishing rods fit nicely into rod tubes and cases that in turn fit into a car trunk, the belly of a float plane, on baggage carrousels, roof racks and a hundred other places a one piece rod isn’t going to fit into.

In a pinch a two piece rod can be broken down and the pieces held together at the butt and tip with an ordinary office rubber band. If two or more rods are bundled and transported this way, they become amazingly resilient to breakage.

TELESCOPIC RODS

The next best thing to a one piece rod is a telescopic rod that allows a significant portion of the rod to slip inside the butt section. This shortens the rod making it much easier to transport and fit into rod lockers. Currently the largest selections of telescopic rods are found in the baitcasting arena. Rods designed for bass, pike, walleye and musky fishing head the list of models suitable for telescopic designs.

In my personal line up of fishing rods, I have Bass Flippin’ Sticks that are telescopic. These rods serve me well for flipping bass jigs and also for casting pike lures. I also have Musky rods that are telescopic and designed to handle heavy lures. I get double duty from these rods casting for other trophy fish like stripers. I also have a full set of telescopic baitcasting rods that are designed for fishing bottom bouncer rigs to catch walleye. These are long rods and the telescopic feature allows them to fit in the rod locker of even modest fishing boats.

A telescopic rod brings to the party a rod that is similar in action and strength to a one piece model, yet they easily collapse for storage and transport. Very cool.

Even jigging rods lose no sensitivity with the new ferrel and graphite designs available these days.

On fly-in fishing trips the author favors two piece rods as they travel better in the belly of a float plane, allowing the author to take a wider selection of rods than would be possible in full length rod tubes.

TRAVEL RODS

A growing number of anglers are discovering travel rods that come in several pieces, that fit nicely into a carrying case that also accepts a couple reels and some tackle. Travel rods are perfect for the angler on the go who can’t be lugging a big long rod tube through airports and custom checks.

The Okuma Nomad series www.okumafishing.com leads the charge in travel rods that are high quality and made for serious fishing. These rods are available in a dozen different casting and spinning versions that feature three segments that fit nicely into the travel case that’s provided.

Travel rod cases have the advantage of being small enough to strap to another suitcase, so at the baggage line, both will ship for one baggage fee.

The cost savings in using travel rods compared to traditional rods is amazing if you do a lot of flying. Recently I shipped a rod tube to Saskatchewan for a Fishing 411 filming adventure. The trip involved three different airline carries all of whom charged me a baggage fee for the rod tube. Because the rod tube is considered oversized baggage I was also charged a premium from each carrier.

The round trip baggage fee ended up costing me $200.00 to ship half a dozen rods! Travel rods would have been included with my other baggage saving me lots of cash and worry wondering if my rods would arrive in one piece!

SUMMING IT UP

Two piece, telescopic and multiple piece travel rods are an outstanding way to travel with fishing rods these days. The rod quality, sensitivity and fishability of these rods is without compromise and chances are they will survive the adventure much better than your pet one piece rods.

Nothing puts a downer on a fishing trip more than arriving only to find your favorite rods didn’t travel well.